With plump­ing gloss mak­ing a come­back, new fillers be­ing launched and Kylie Jen­ner lead­ing the charge, full lips are blow­ing up. By WENDY SCH­MID

Fashion (Canada) - - Enhancement -


been a groundswell of sorts. You could say it started when Kylie Jen­ner sud­denly mor­phed from fresh­faced teen to sul­try bomb­shell with a sus­pi­ciously plumped pout. She of­fered an ex­pla­na­tion: makeup. But her fren­zied In­sta-flock took to a dif­fer­ent method—by way of a lip chal­lenge. The mis­sion: Suck your lips into a shot glass and be­hold the beestung re­sults. Some recorded their suc­cesses; oth­ers, the dam­ag­ing con­se­quences (pro­fuse swelling and bruis­ing). Un­der re­lent­less scru­tiny, Kylie even­tu­ally ad­mit­ted that her new lips were not, in fact, the re­sult of makeup but ac­tu­ally in­jec­tions of filler. Re­gard­less, the mes­sage was clear: Lips are big right now. “We seem to have this ob­ses­sion with full lips,” says Man­hat­tan der­ma­tol­o­gist Dr. Francesca Fusco. “A fuller lip rel­a­tive to the rest of the face does some­how register as beauty and youth­ful­ness.” Gil­lian Okopny, Nars na­tional lead stylist, agrees. “Women al­ways want a fuller lip, and we’re def­i­nitely get­ting how-to re­quests at depart­ment store and Sephora events. We’ve had a lot of girls ask for the ‘Kylie lip.’ When pic­tures of her first came out, it was easily five girls a day and they’re still ask­ing for it now.” Kylie’s look can’t be achieved with makeup alone—though she re­cently re­vealed that a Kylie Lip Kit is in the works—but you can cheat the lip line to make lips look fuller, Okopny says. “The key is to draw just out­side of the bor­der but not too much.” So many peo­ple asked makeup artist Lora Arel­lano about Kylie’s lips that she posted a step-by-step photo with lip­stick and liner, us­ing her own pout. “It took off on so­cial media and is still float­ing around Pin­ter­est,” says the LA-based pro, who works with Ri­hanna and Bar Re­faeli.

Arel­lano’s tech­nique, known as an om­bré lip, is the best way to paint on plump­ness. “You ap­ply lip­stick all over and then line with a liner that’s about two shades darker than your lip tone,” she says. “Next, blend re­ally well with a lip brush so the ef­fect re­mains sub­tly lighter in the cen­tre of the mouth, cre­at­ing depth.” Nude shades are eas­i­est to work with be­cause you won’t see mis­takes; Arel­lano just launched two, Sext and Nood, as part of her Melt Cos­met­ics line. Okopny flips the liner/lip­stick ap­pli­ca­tion or­der but also reaches for nudes with rosy pink tones so the re­sult isn’t drab. “Dab­bing a bit of shine like Nars Lip Gloss in Chelsea Girls, a pinky nude, at the cen­tre of your lips will heighten the il­lu­sion of vol­ume,” Okopny adds. So will us­ing a lip brush with short, an­gled bris­tles to pre­cisely de­fine the Cu­pid’s bow. “You’re cre­at­ing full­ness by trick­ing the eye,” says Arel­lano. “It’s like get­ting that An­gelina Jolie look with­out any cos­metic surgery.”

Of course, true lip aug­men­ta­tion is also on the up­swing. Com­pa­nies like Al­ler­gan and Gal­derma have launched in­jectable fillers specif­i­cally for the lips, and doc­tors are see­ing the ef­fects of the Kylie phe­nom­e­non. “She’s done us doc­tors a real favour,” says Toronto plas­tic sur­geon Dr. Frank Lista. “Her lips look bal­anced and nat­u­ral. If you didn’t know what she looked like be­fore, you’d think those were her lips.” Lista is see­ing more young women in their 20s »

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