At first, ANDREW COIMBRA , 30, viewed himself as a menswear designer, but after getting shortlisted for the womens wear dominated Toronto Fashion Incubator New Label of the Year award, he decided to try his hand at a predominantly genderneutral collection for fall (andrewcoimbra.com). Coimbra sees his lightweight puffers in Rorschach-like prints and wide-lapel khaki trenches as “revisited classics” or staples that have evolved. “I was focused on menswear, but by the nature of people interested in the collection and label, I shifted a bit because a lot of women were saying ‘Oh my, I could totally wear that bomber’ or ‘I love that mock neck,’” says Coimbra, who studied at Toronto’s OCAD University and George Brown College before apprenticing at Pink Tartan, Philip Sparks and Proenza Schouler. “Clothing is not very specific, I find. You can play into whatever you want to.” —C.O.