With sham­poo sales peak­ing and clean hair all over the run­ways, lath­er­ing up is sud­denly on trend.

With sham­poo sales reach­ing peak lev­els and freshly washed hair dom­i­nat­ing the run­ways, the lat­est trend is all about lath­er­ing up.

Fashion (Canada) - - Contents - By Kari Molvar

The night be­fore Ralph Lau­ren’s Fall 2017 fash­ion show, the mod­els had im­por­tant plans: They were sham­poo­ing their hair. They did so at the re­quest of Red­ken global cre­ative di­rec­tor Guido Palau, who led the back­stage team and turned clean hair—and the airy tex­ture and soft shine that comes af­ter a good lath­er­ing ses­sion—into a com­plete style that stood on its own. The rad­i­cally sim­ple look an­chored the sea­son, with well-washed hair sweep­ing the run­ways at Chris­tian Dior, Is­abel Marant, Coach and Chloé, send­ing a mes­sage that clean hair has never seemed quite so chic. Per­haps the urge to suds up—and put one’s arse­nal of styling aids on hold—stems from our cur­rent ob­ses­sion with detox­i­fy­ing and pu­ri­fy­ing ev­ery part of our be­ing. “When your hair feels light and fresh, so do you,” ex­plains Jorge Joao, in­ter­na­tional Red­ken artist. Wash­ing your hair is no longer just one step in an over­all rou­tine—it’s the only step for some. “Clean hair can be a style in and of it­self,” con­tends Howard McLaren, celebrity stylist and co-founder of R+Co, who says the wash-and-go look ap­peals to women who would rather not deal with heavy prod­ucts or who have re­al­ized that dry sham­poo can only take them so far. “Though it can have a ‘cleans­ing’ ef­fect, the only way to truly clean your hair is to wash it,” he ex­plains. “If used ex­ten­sively, dry sham­poo can cre­ate a buildup on the scalp.” As French hairstylist Christophe Robin puts it, “You can’t live on dry sham­poo!”

So, it’s no won­der “real sham­poo” sales are boom­ing in Canada. They have risen con­sis­tently over the past five years, reach­ing $337 mil­lion in 2016, ac­cord­ing to mar­ket re­search com­pany Min­tel. Nat­u­ral and or­ganic for­mu­las have been fu­elling much of the de­mand. (So-called “herbal” sham­poos are the fastest grow­ing seg­ment of the mar­ket.) “Con­sumers are more aware than ever, and they know what they don’t want in their beauty prod­ucts,” says Robin. On the no-thanks list: sil­i­cones (“they have a ten­dency to suf­fo­cate the scalp and make your hair fall flat and your scalp oily,” cau­tions Robin), parabens, syn­thetic chem­i­cals and pun­ish­ing cleans­ing agents that can strip the hair. “Un­til re­cently, sham­poos could be too ag­gres­sive due to the use of harsh sul­fates,” notes McLaren. Now, in the mil­len­nial era of to­tal trans­parency, “clients are driv­ing the stan­dards for what in­gre­di­ents they don’t want to see in their prod­ucts,” he says.

This up­ris­ing has paved the way for next-level “smart” sham­poos that tap into nat­u­ral ac­tives and uniquely dif­fer­ent tex­tures to clean your hair in never-seen-be­fore ways. Red­ken’s Clean Ma­niac Mi­cel­lar Clean-Touch Sham­poo, for ex­am­ple, is in­fused with mi­cel­lar tech­nol­ogy (nor­mally found in skin cleansers and makeup re­movers) for a first-to-mar­ket hair care in­no­va­tion that gen­tly lifts im­pu­ri­ties from the sur­face. “Most sham­poos clean by re­mov­ing all of the oils in the hair and on the scalp,” says Joao. “The mi­cel­lar molecule en­cases all the »

dirt and un­wanted oils in your hair and re­moves them while mak­ing sure to leave be­hind your nat­u­ral oils.” When poured from the bot­tle, it feels more wa­tery than your typ­i­cal sham­poo but still lath­ers up— just enough. Or, con­sider IGK’s Smoke & Mir­rors Con­di­tion­ing Cleans­ing Oil; the melt­ing for­mula is a riff on face cleansers and gets rid of ex­cess grease with a blend of co­conut and sweet al­mond oils. (Plus, it func­tions as a sham­poo and con­di­tioner in one.)

Some con­cepts break the mould with shape-shift­ing for­mats. When damp­ened and rubbed on your scalp, Robin’s new Hy­drat­ing Sham­poo Bar trans­forms from a solid to a foam state, seal­ing in mois­ture with aloe vera, cas­tor oil and glyc­er­ine. The novel cre­ation is hand­made us­ing cold saponi­fi­ca­tion—a preser­va­tive-free soap­mak­ing method that main­tains the in­tegrity of the in­gre­di­ents and pro­duces a high-qual­ity, nour­ish­ing lather. “Your hair needs a few washes to adapt be­cause, un­like clas­sic sham­poos, which are wa­ter­based, this is oil-based,” ex­plains Robin, who sug­gests us­ing the con­cen­trated bar two to three times a week and fol­low­ing it with his Hy­drat­ing Leave-In Mist. “The hair is go­ing to feel crisp when you’re rins­ing it out,” he says of the bar, which “ul­ti­mately gives tex­ture to the hair and makes it stronger in the long term.”

When your hair looks on point post-sham­poo, there’s lit­tle need to ap­ply any­thing else. That’s the view of McLaren, whose R+Co sham­poos come with built-in styling ben­e­fits. The Ana­log Cleans­ing Foam Con­di­tioner con­tains shine-en­hanc­ing net­tle leaf and strength­en­ing horse­tail ex­tract, while the Cac­tus Tex­tur­iz­ing Sham­poo bulks up strands with di­atoma­ceous earth to add grip and body with­out the need to break out the mousse or beach sprays. “Be­ing able to use in­gre­di­ents in sham­poos and con­di­tion­ers that have tra­di­tion­ally only been used in styling prod­ucts is a re­ally cool ad­vance­ment,” says McLaren. The end re­sult, he adds, “sets the pace for the rest of your style.”

Still, even the most out-of-this-world sham­poo should only be used a few times a week. “I’m not for wash­ing the hair ev­ery day,” says Robin. “Stretch­ing it out for a few days is bet­ter for your hair,” agrees Joao. “Let your nat­u­ral oils ac­cu­mu­late a lit­tle bit—this is how your hair and scalp get some of their nu­tri­tion.” And no mat­ter the type of sham­poo, use the right tech­nique: Fo­cus on the scalp rather than the ends, and, as you rub, “don’t scratch your hair with your nails,” pleads Robin. “Gen­tly mas­sage—trust me, it does the work!” And give your hair a good, thorough soak­ing to fin­ish. “Rinse re­ally well!” says Robin. “We never rinse enough!” As for the ad­vice to rinse and re­peat? Nah. “Back in the ’70s, some guy coined the phrase and the trend was squeaky-clean hair,” says McLaren. Times have changed. “When you are us­ing a great sham­poo, you just need to wash once,” he says. Now, it’s one and done—and out the door.




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