HONG KONG

Fashion (Canada) - - EXPLORE -

Also in Cen­tral, there’s PMQ. Short for “Po­lice Mar­ried Quar­ters,” a nod to the build­ings’ past life, it pro­vides af­ford­able stu­dio and re­tail spaces for lo­cal de­sign­ers. (Other cities, take note.) On the fourth floor of Block A, there’s Cen­tral Saint Martins grad Chailie Ho; a whiz with silk, she spe­cial­izes in scarves and slinky dresses. Across a court­yard, in Block B, Hugo Ye­ung and Belinda Chang run their jew­ellery stu­dio, Obellery, show­cas­ing their own works (Ye­ung favours weighty geo­met­ric shapes, while Chang plays a lot with pearls) as well as pieces by lo­cal

and in­ter­na­tional artists. Ho, Ye­ung and Chang also rou­tinely run work­shops to share their skills with neo­phytes. There’s food at PMQ, too, in­clud­ing three bak­eries and Miche­lin-star chef Ja­son Ather­ton’s Aberdeen Street So­cial. A five-minute stroll down Hol­ly­wood Road is Man Mo Tem­ple. Ded­i­cated to the Taoist God of Lit­er­a­ture (Man) and the God of War (Mo), it’s es­pe­cially pop­u­lar among stu­dents—and their par­ents, hop­ing for high test scores—but also for any­one look­ing for respite from the bus­tle. In­cense wafts from all sides, even from above, where coils of it slough off ash like clouds of snow. Those seek­ing guid­ance can shake a can of num­bered sticks, which cor­re­spond to for­tunes; throw down a pair of cres­cent-shaped wooden blocks for an­swers to sim­ple yes or no ques­tions; or try both, which is what I do be­cause I’m un­sure about nearly ev­ery­thing.

De­part­ing from the Tai Po Mar­ket rail sta­tion, 20 kilo­me­tres north­west of Sai Kung, Hong Kong Foodie Tast­ing Tours guide cu­ri­ous epi­cure­ans on pro­gres­sive meals. The first course is

cheong fun, steamed rice noo­dles that melt in my mouth, at Chan Hon Kee. There’s not much time to walk that off be­fore I ar­rive at Yat Lok Barbecue Restau­rant with its win­dow of glis­ten­ing roasted geese, which are the thing to try. (An­thony Bour­dain’s a fan.) There’s also a place for snake soup, but it’s not in sea­son at the mo­ment, and, ad­mit­tedly, I’m re­lieved. Ma­cau-style sweets pro­vide a much-needed palate cleanse be­fore I head to the mar­ket com­plex for deep­fried cut­tle­fish balls, steamed mul­let fish and crab. Con­sumed on a stool out­side as dusk turns to night, a re­fresh­ing black sesame tofu dessert from Jiu Guo Xiang Lin caps off my four-hour feast. This is when I learn the most use­ful Can­tonese phrase: ho bau (trans­la­tion: “very full”).

T’ANG COURT

THE SKY BOSS

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