EAT: Kafe Leila

According to locals, a former incarnation of this opulently decorated restaurant smack dab in the centre of Old Town was the choice hangout for wealthy expats in Georgia. Now under new ownership, it has been transformed into a hipsterish vegetarian café that sells bangin’ butternut squash soup and traditional Georgian walnut spreads (to be generously slathered on fresh bread). The ludicrously sumptuous decor—including bulbous moulded ceilings and lacy pistachio green walls—remains wonderfully intact.