Ex­treme Makeover

Fashion (Canada) - - The Market | Products - —Souzan Michael

Mas­cara has long been a makeup kit sta­ple, but now, due to the pop­u­lar­ity of lash ex­ten­sions and falsies, the mas­cara biz is tak­ing a hit. Mar­ket re­search firm Euromon­i­tor In­ter­na­tional pre­dicts that sales will drop from 4 per cent to 2 per cent in the next three years. That said, mas­cara still brought in $8.1 bil­lion in 2017.

Chanel is aiming to shake up the cat­e­gory with Le Vol­ume Révo­lu­tion de Chanel, the first mas­cara brush printed on a 3-D printer. The brand be­gan look­ing into the tech­nol­ogy in 2001, and by 2007, it had reg­is­tered patents for 3-D-printed cos­met­ics prod­ucts. “Three­d­i­men­sional print­ing al­lows us to ex­pand the field of pos­si­bil­i­ties with brush shapes,” says Armelle Souraud, in­ter­na­tional sci­en­tific com­mu­ni­ca­tions direc­tor for Chanel. The de­sign was tweaked 100 times while in de­vel­op­ment, re­sult­ing in a wand that she calls “un­prece­dented.” It has fea­tures that can’t be at­tained through the tra­di­tional man­u­fac­tur­ing process, such as mi­cro-cav­i­ties (which ab­sorb the mas­cara be­fore de­posit­ing ex­actly the right amount), a gran­u­lar tex­ture on the sur­face of the brush (which en­hances lash adherence) and a mil­lime­tre scale ar­range­ment of the bris­tles for uni­form prod­uct dis­tri­bu­tion. And the mas­cara’s for­mula is tai­lor-made for the unique brush shape. “The ul­tra-pure pig­ments in­fuse the tex­ture with an ab­so­lute deep black,” ex­plains Souraud, “and the poly­mer film keeps this blend in place un­til the mas­cara is re­moved.”

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