IT TAKES A LOT OF BEER TO MAKE…

Wildass Red VQA (VINTAGES 86363, $19.95). Stratus’s second label is a powerful blend of Merlot, Cab’ Franc, Cab’ Sauvignon, Syrah and Sangiovese. Behind the warm smile of rich ripe fruit there are brooding depths of mocha and smoke, soft but leathery tannins and a long finish that brings all these elements together. If you like a “big red,” this is a great (and bargain-priced) choice, with enough acidity and structure to make a brilliant marriage with barbecued steak or roast leg of lamb.