Food & Drink - - DRINK SEASONAL -

LCBO 521302, 750 mL, $16.95

With their Funkier Pump­kin, the brew­ers at Boule­vard Brew­ing Com­pany in Kansas City, Mis­souri, take a strong spiced ale and fer­ment it with a mix of tra­di­tional brewer’s yeast and Bret­tanomyces yeast, the lat­ter known for pro­duc­ing musty, funky flavours and aro­mas— or what the brew­ery refers to as “forest floor notes.” The re­sult is a beer quite un­like your typ­i­cal pump­kin ale— it’s part earthy gourd, part cin­na­mon, all­spice and gin­gery spice and part off-dry, warm­ing malt.

What the im­pact of the Bret­tanomyces does is cre­ate a beer with a spici­ness that won’t over­whelm the herbs, gar­lic and paprika used to sea­son the bird (as would an ale with more overt spici­ness), while also cre­at­ing a dry­ness that serves as a plat­form for the moist suc­cu­lence of the chicken. Ar­guably, this will be a su­pe­rior pair­ing with dark meat than it will be with white but, pro­vid­ing the crisp skin is added to the plate, it should pro­duce palate plea­sure with ev­ery bite.

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