You can taste the ever-so-friendly symbiosis of old wine barrels (from Pearl Morissette winery), brettanomyces yeast and great beer in The Exchange Brewery’s Golden Ale (LCBO 493049, 750 mL, $13.50), made in the Belgian style. The brett shows up on the nose as a funky, earthy note underlying coconut, pineapple and vanilla aromas. Complex and tart but approachable, it’s truly a wine-lover’s beer. Oast House Brewers is located right next door to Stratus winery and its flagship Barn Raiser Country Ale (LCBO 460618, 473 mL, $3.30) celebrates the neighbourly spirit. Brewed in the American IPA style, it’s a refreshingly dry, medium-bodied ale full of the aromas of peach, citrus and hops. Taste it and the fruit and citrusy hops are in perfect harmony. Easy to drink but with enough going on to repay a master winemaker’s close analysis, this is a fine session beer.