A SPLASH OF OUZO

THE PROOF IS IN THE FLAVOUR WHEN YOU COOK WITH OUZO.

Flaming cheese (saganaki), a bit of theatre in Greek restaurants, gets an at home twist with ouzo instead of brandy.

THE OOEY-GOOEY, FLAMING CHEESE DISH, named for the traditional two-handled Greek skillet in which it’s cooked, is restaurant theatre at its best. Usually accompanied by a resounding cry of “Opa!”—appropriately, Greek for “Oops!”—saganaki turns heads in tavernas everywhere, so its pyrotechnics are just the thing to add pizzazz to your holiday entertaining (while being sure to take heed of the safety tips in our recipe).

Greek brandy is the usual fuel of choice for saganaki, but the rich saltiness of the cheese goes surprisingly well with the sweet licorice kick of that other Greek tipple, ouzo. The combo works so well that—with apologies to any Greek yiayiás (grandmothers)—we break with tradition and marinate the cheese overnight in additional ouzo for an extra layer of flavour. We like Ouzo 12 (LCBO 123133, $21.15) for its pronounced fennel-anise taste and notes of lemon and spice.

As for the cheese, don’t be tempted to use feta (it’s way too salty). Instead, go with the Real McCoy— Greek kefalotyri or kefalograviera. Or make like they do in Cyprus and sub creamy halloumi.