What Wines to Serve…


What catches the wine-pairer’s eye about this recipe? Chest­nuts and thyme in the stuff­ing; brandy and thyme in the gravy; the dif­fer­ent kinds of earth­i­ness that lentils and root vegeta­bles bring. You can al­most smell the dried her­bal gar­rigue un­der­growth of the south of France or Spain and taste the earthy warmth of Gre­nache or Tem­pranillo. A gen­er­ous, medium-bod­ied red should suit the tex­tures and flat­ter the dish with­out try­ing to over­power it. From France’s vast south­ern Rhône vine­yards, Brotte La fi­ole Côtes du Rhône (LCBO 293498, $16.60) fits the de­scrip­tion nicely, po­litely echo­ing the con­ver­sa­tion of the in­gre­di­ents on the plate. Rioja Bordón Gran Reserva (LCBO 428060, $25.60) takes a more forth­right ap­proach, with a darker, deeper per­son­al­ity and a hint of the barn­yard be­hind the black and red berry. Some­thing in the wine reaches out and grabs the chest­nuts in the stuff­ing.

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