What Wines to Serve…

What catches the wine-pairer’s eye about this recipe? Chestnuts and thyme in the stuffing; brandy and thyme in the gravy; the different kinds of earthiness that lentils and root vegetables bring. You can almost smell the dried herbal garrigue undergrowth of the south of France or Spain and taste the earthy warmth of Grenache or Tempranillo. A generous, medium-bodied red should suit the textures and flatter the dish without trying to overpower it. From France’s vast southern Rhône vineyards, Brotte La fiole Côtes du Rhône (LCBO 293498, $16.60) fits the description nicely, politely echoing the conversation of the ingredients on the plate. Rioja Bordón Gran Reserva (LCBO 428060, $25.60) takes a more forthright approach, with a darker, deeper personality and a hint of the barnyard behind the black and red berry. Something in the wine reaches out and grabs the chestnuts in the stuffing.