Chardonnay

Chardonnay is a chameleon, showing very different sides of its personality according to climate and the winemaker’s whims.

Some like their Chardonnay as lean and clean as Chablis; others want ripe, opulent, tropical fruit and plenty of oak. For the latter group, there is Mer Soleil Reserve Chardonnay (VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 958975, $34.95) from the Santa Lucia Highlands in Monterey County. This is old school Californian Chardonnay, fermented and aged in French oak, and hitting almost 15% alcohol. Intense aromas of pineapple, guava and caramel linger for ages.

Also from a warm climate (France’s Pays d’Oc) but in a fresher, more laid-back style, Calmel & Joseph Villa Blanche Chardonnay (LCBO 375071, $14.90) is a zesty bargain offering illusions of cantaloupe and pear and an unexpected herbal note. This is a useful all-purpose white for a party and versatile enough to work with most fish and poultry dishes.