Sangiovese

From bright, food-friendly Chianti to the brooding might of Brunello, the Sangiovese grape maintains its earthy, cherry-like personality.

Brooding? Really? Maybe “contemplative” is closer to the mark with Frescobaldi’s renowned Castel Giocondo Brunello di Montalcino (VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 650432, $52.95). The 2012 is starting to come into its own, to the point where fresh cherry and plum are turning into raisin and dried cherry, with a delectable sherry-like note from the long barrel-ageing. Notes of anise and dried herbs also contribute to a rich, intense, tangy flavour that lasts for minutes on the palate.

Vinetti de Fiorini Chianti Superiore DOCG (LCBO 488577, $14.95) is simple by comparison (most wines would be) but still a lovely vino with mellow tannins lurking beneath the cloak of black fruit and cherries. Fresh and forthright with zingy acidity, it’s great with pizza.