Ries­ling

Food & Drink - - WINE JUST IN CASE -

Al­ways a fresh, racy aper­i­tif, On­tario Ries­ling is also a bril­liantly ver­sa­tile food wine with matches rang­ing from sushi to char­cu­terie and roast pork.

Mak­ing Ries­ling is a bal­anc­ing act. The wine­maker must leave a touch of sweet­ness in the wine to counter its vi­brant acid­ity but with­out be­ing heavy-handed, so the char­ac­ter of the ter­roir can shine forth. Tawse Quarry Road Or­ganic Ries­ling VQA (VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 198853, $24.50) is a most el­e­gant ex­am­ple of this leg­erde­main: sweet­ness and tart­ness in per­fect coun­ter­poise, po­litely al­low­ing the sub­tle aro­mat­ics to step into the light—man­darin, lime zest and a hint of min­er­al­ity. The grapes come from a sin­gle or­ganic bio­dy­namic vine­yard in Ni­a­gara’s Vinemount Ridge VQA.

From one of On­tario’s great masters of the va­ri­ety, Cave Spring Ries­ling VQA

(LCBO 234583 $15.95) is re­li­ably de­li­cious and beau­ti­fully bal­anced, of­fer­ing grape­fruit and flo­ral notes—re­fresh­ing, tangy and nim­ble.

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