Always a fresh, racy aperitif, Ontario Riesling is also a brilliantly versatile food wine with matches ranging from sushi to charcuterie and roast pork.
Making Riesling is a balancing act. The winemaker must leave a touch of sweetness in the wine to counter its vibrant acidity but without being heavy-handed, so the character of the terroir can shine forth. Tawse Quarry Road Organic Riesling VQA (VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 198853, $24.50) is a most elegant example of this legerdemain: sweetness and tartness in perfect counterpoise, politely allowing the subtle aromatics to step into the light—mandarin, lime zest and a hint of minerality. The grapes come from a single organic biodynamic vineyard in Niagara’s Vinemount Ridge VQA.
From one of Ontario’s great masters of the variety, Cave Spring Riesling VQA
(LCBO 234583 $15.95) is reliably delicious and beautifully balanced, offering grapefruit and floral notes—refreshing, tangy and nimble.