Food & Drink

Savouring WATERMELON

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WATERMELON GAZPACHO

A sweeter, less acidic take on the classic (there’s no tomato juice added) garnished with a fine dice of cucumber, watermelon, crispy fried pancetta and croutons, this chilled summer soup is practicall­y chug-able! The pancetta adds a salty, fatty decadence, but leave it off for the vegetarian­s at the table.

½ of a roughly ⅔ lb (300-g) rustic loaf of soft white bread

⅓ cup (80 mL) good olive oil

⅓ cup (80 mL) freshly squeezed lemon juice 3 cloves garlic, minced

½ tsp (2 mL) fine sea salt

½ tsp (2 mL) white pepper

1 sweet red pepper, seeded and coarsely chopped

1 small jalapeño pepper, seeded and coarsely chopped

4 cups (1 L) mixed cherry tomatoes: red, yellow, orange or heirlooms

8 cups (2 L) coarsely chopped seedless

(or seeded) watermelon; leave about a ½ inch (1 cm) of watermelon on the rind and reserve for use later in the recipe

1 large (approx. 12 inch/30 cm) English cucumber, peeled and seeded; divided

GARNISH

2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil

½ cup (125 mL) finely chopped pancetta, about 2 oz (60 g)

Reserved cucumber and watermelon rind 1 tsp (5 mL) good-quality apple cider vinegar Sea salt to taste

1 Cut the half loaf of bread down the middle widthwise, as if making a huge sandwich. With fingers, carefully pull out the soft crumb without tearing the crusts, and add to a medium bowl. Set the empty shells of crust aside for use later in the recipe. 2 To the soft bread crumb, add the olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, salt and pepper; stir to combine and set aside.

3 Into the bowl of a food processor, add the red pepper, jalapeño and cherry tomatoes; blend on high until slushy with some very fine bits. You may need to stop and scrape down the sides from time to time. Transfer to a very large serving or punch bowl, jug or even a spaghetti pot, big enough to hold about 8 cups (2 L).

4 Return the food processor bowl to the machine and add the watermelon; blend on high until slushy. Add to the bowl of tomato-andpepper slush.

5 Coarsely chop about three-quarters of the peeled and seeded cucumber. Return the food processor bowl to the machine and add the chopped cucumber and bread-and-garlic mixture. Blend on high until a thick paste. Add 1 to 2 cups (250 to 500 mL) of the melon mixture to the food processor and continue to blend on high until completely smooth and creamy, about 1 minute.

6 Add this to the rest of the slush or soup and stir well to blend. Transfer to fridge to chill for at least 2 hours.

7 Meanwhile, make the garnishes. Cut the crusts into randomly shaped croutons; set aside. You should get 20 to 30 pieces from the 2 slabs of crust.

8 Into a medium skillet over medium-high heat, add the oil and chopped pancetta. Fry until crispy, about 3 to 5 minutes, stirring often. Lift from skillet with a slotted spoon and drain on clean kitchen towel.

9 Add the cut crusts to the skillet, reduce to medium heat and fry on both sides until golden, about 2 to 3 minutes each side. Transfer to clean kitchen towel with slotted spoon; set aside to cool.

10 Finely dice the remaining piece of cucumber. Go back to the watermelon rind, cut off the reserved red watermelon flesh—this stuff is more firm than the rest of the melon—and cut into fine dice, the same size as the cucumber. Add to a small bowl and toss with apple cider vinegar and sea salt to taste. Set aside in the fridge to chill until ready to serve.

11 This pretty soup can be served in shot glasses as a passed hors d’oeuvre, or in china cups, bowls, dessert nappies or even glass tumblers. Garnish with a pinch of the diced watermelon and cucumber, a pinch of crunchy pancetta and a crouton or 2. Or bring serving bowl of gazpacho to the table along with little dishes of all the condiments so guests can top their own. Makes about 8 cups (2 L)

WHAT TO SERVE

Fresh Beginnings Moscato VQA

LCBO 341776 $12.95 The light sweetness of the wine helps highlight the natural sweetness of tomatoes and watermelon.

Zonin Prosecco Brut 1821 DOC

LCBO 277186 $15.75 The soft spritz and approachab­le style of this Prosecco make it versatile with food; here it complement­s the delicate flavours of watermelon and cucumber.

COLD SOBA NOODLES, WATERMELON & BAY SCALLOPS WITH MISOSOY-SESAME VINAIGRETT­E

Tender noodles, savoury dressing and buttery scallops are a perfectly delicious contrast to the bite-size chunks of sweet, crunchy, refreshing watermelon. This recipe is a great excuse to go on an Asian-ingredient shopping spree. One of the ingredient­s called for is “seasoned” rice wine vinegar, which has salt and sugar added. If you happen to have unseasoned on hand, you may need to add some salt and a pinch of white sugar; taste and adjust if desired. We call for bay scallops here, but if you prefer the larger sea scallop, simply adjust amounts and cooking times.

4 cups (1 L) cooked soba noodles; start with approximat­ely 9½ oz (270 g) uncooked

2 cups (500 mL) fish, vegetable or chicken stock or clam juice

1 lb or 2 cups (455 g or 500 mL) bay scallops or 12 to 14 large sea scallops

1 tbsp (15 mL) yellow or white miso paste

1 tbsp (15 mL) mirin (Japanese cooking wine) 2 tbsp (30 mL) seasoned rice wine vinegar

1 tsp (5 mL) soy sauce

½ tsp (2 mL) toasted sesame oil

1 tsp (5 mL) ponzu sauce

1 tsp (5 mL) chili garlic sauce, sriracha or sambal oelek 2 tbsp (30 mL) grape-seed, sunflower, peanut or other neutral-tasting oil

5 scallions, trimmed, thinly sliced, divided

2 tsp (10 mL) toasted white sesame seeds, plus a pinch more for garnishing (see TIP)

1 tbsp (15 mL) finely minced fresh ginger, peeled 3 cups (750 mL) cubed, bite-size pieces of watermelon

1 Cover cooked soba noodles and refrigerat­e to chill.

2 Add the stock or clam juice to a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over high heat; add the scallops. Simmer for 1 to 2 minutes for bay scallops or 3 to 4 minutes for sea scallops—or until opaque and just slightly firm to the touch. Drain and set aside in the fridge to chill.

3 In a large non-reactive or glass bowl, add the miso paste, mirin, rice wine vinegar, soy sauce, sesame oil, ponzu sauce, chili garlic sauce and grape-seed oil; whisk to combine and make smooth.

4 Add approximat­ely 4 of the sliced scallions, sesame seeds, ginger, chilled scallops, watermelon and noodles; toss to combine and coat with the dressing. Sprinkle with reserved pinch of sesame seeds and remaining reserved sliced scallion; serve immediatel­y.

Serves 4 as a main or 6 as an appetizer or side dish TIP

It’s now possible to buy toasted sesame seeds in most markets, but to toast your own, simply toss sesame seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat until very lightly browned. Transfer immediatel­y to a plate or bowl so they don’t burn in the pan’s residual heat.

WHAT TO SERVE

Fukushougu­n Junmai Ginjo Sake

LCBO 292234, 720 mL $29.85 Fresh, pure and regal in character, this sake is a superb match for the umami flavours of this noodle dish.

Pierre Sparr Gewürztram­iner

LCBO 373373 $17.55 The aromatic bouquet and light sweetness of this Alsatian Gewürztram­iner support the delicacy of scallops while highlighti­ng the gingery notes.

FRESH OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL WITH A WATERMELON MIGNONETTE

Some oysters taste remarkably like melon and cucumber, others are more metallic and briny. Either way, watermelon is a delightful­ly surprising complement, while radish adds a bit of bite. This recipe makes enough mignonette for a party of 10 to 15 oyster-lovers. Leftover mignonette will only last a day or two in the fridge, so invite the gang over for oysters and serve with a green side salad tossed with a vinaigrett­e made from the mignonette whisked with an equal amount of olive oil.

2 cups (500 mL) coarsely chopped watermelon, seedless or seeded

2 tbsp (30 mL) sherry vinegar or raspberry vinegar

3 radishes, minced

¼ tsp (1 mL) fine sea salt

¼ tsp (1 mL) black pepper

Ice cold oysters, shucked, as many as you’d like, up to about 100

Beet or radish microgreen­s to garnish, if desired

1 Add the coarsely chopped watermelon to a blender or food processor: blend on high to liquefy.

2 Into a medium non-reactive or glass bowl, add the vinegar, radishes, salt and pepper and liquified watermelon. Stir to combine. Transfer to a serving glass or dish and set aside in the fridge to chill for about 30 minutes.

3 To serve, top each oyster with about 1 tsp (5 mL) of the mignonette. If desired, top that with a microgreen or 2. Or simply bring the shucked oysters and dish of mignonette to the table and let guests enjoy as much or as little mignonette as they please. Serve immediatel­y.

Makes 2 cups (500 mL), enough for approximat­ely 100 oysters

WHAT TO SERVE

Cîroc Pineapple Spirit Drink

LCBO 446823 $49.95 Pineapple’s affinity for watermelon makes for a unique and winning combinatio­n of flavours.

La Chablisien­ne les Vénérables,Vieilles Vignes VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 215525 $26.95 The mineral character of Chablis helps preserve the natural briny flavour of freshly shucked oysters.

GRILLED PORK LOIN WITH GRILLED WATERMELON, GRILLED CORN, EDAMAME & LIME SALSA

Bright and colourful, fresh and tangy, this dish is summer on a plate. The salsa is perfect with pork but also excellent with fish, chicken, grilled veggie kebabs or even with rice and avocado. If you can’t find edamame or you’re avoiding soy, then fresh peas or a tin of black beans, rinsed and drained, will work fine with this Mexican-inspired dish.

½ tsp (2 mL) ground cumin

1½ tsp (7 mL) sea salt, divided

½ tsp (2 mL) pepper

½ tsp (2 mL) sugar

1 pork loin, 2 lbs (905 g)

¼ cup (60 mL) olive oil, plus about 2 tsp (10 mL) more for oiling the loin

1 cup (250 mL) fresh or frozen edamame

4 ears of corn on the cob, shucked

¼ of large or typical-size watermelon, cut into wedges about 2 inches (5 cm) thick, about 5 to 7 wedges

1 small red onion, finely diced, about 1 cup (250 mL)

1 clove garlic, finely minced

¼ cup (60 mL) finely chopped fresh coriander, tender top stems and leaves only

1 jalapeño, seeded and finely diced

4 limes, divided (3 for grilling, 1 for juicing)

1 Into a small bowl add the cumin, ½ tsp (2 mL) salt, pepper and sugar. Stir to blend. Allow the pork loin to come to room temperatur­e. Rub it all over with a drizzle (2 tsp/5 mL) of olive oil—just enough to make it sticky—then dust it all over with cumin and salt rub. Set aside at room temperatur­e until ready to grill or roast, which you will do last, preventing it from drying out.

2 Bring a saucepan of water to a boil over high heat. Add the edamame and boil for about 1 minute; drain and rinse under cold water until cool to the touch. Set aside in the fridge to drain and chill further. 3 Set grill on medium-high and grill the corn on the cob, turning often, for about 5 minutes or until there is a nice mix of charred and yellow kernels. Don’t be alarmed, expect some dramatic snapping and popping! Set aside to cool. Once cool enough to handle, slice the kernels off the cobs with a sharp knife. Add to a large, non-reactive or glass bowl and set aside in the fridge.

4 Place the watermelon wedges on the grill and turn as soon as there are some dark grill marks, about 1 to 2 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate and set aside to cool. When cool enough to handle, cut into about 1-inch (2.5-mL) cubes. Add watermelon cubes to the bowl with corn.

5 Add the onion, garlic, edamame, coriander, jalapeño, 1 tsp (5 mL) salt and the juice of 1 lime to bowl with watermelon; stir to combine well. Return to the fridge to continue chilling while the pork cooks.

6 Grill pork on preheated medium-high barbecue or in a preheated oven set to 425°F (220°C), turning a few times during grilling for even cooking and nice charring or turning once during roasting. Pork should cook for 20 to 35 minutes, or until a meat thermomete­r inserted into the thickest part reads anywhere between 145°F (63°C) for medium-rare and 160°F (71°C) for well done.

7 Cut the 3 remaining limes in half and set on the grill, cut-side down, until juicy and with some grill marks, about 3 minutes.

8 To serve, slice pork loin and serve a few slices with a generous spoonful of the salsa, a grilled lime half and some grilled flatbread, rice or quinoa. Garnish with more coriander leaves if desired.

Serves 4 to 6, making 8 cups (2 L) salsa WHAT TO SERVE

Brickworks Ciderhouse Batch: 1904

LCBO 394015, 473 mL $3.30 Pork’s natural affinity for apples is highlighte­d when matched with this deliciousl­y dry cider.

Angels Gate Gamay Noir VQA

LCBO 107714 $13.95 The bright berry flavours and hints of smoke of this Gamay complement the grilled elements of the dish.

MUCHO MELON SALAD

We think this all-round, multi-coloured salad is as cute as a button; but if you don’t have a melon baller, don’t fret, just go with cubes instead. The sweetness of the melon and blueberry is beautifull­y balanced by the freshness of mint, the saltiness of the ricotta salata, the creaminess of bocconcini, and the green sharpness of the peas—and it just might be the prettiest salad you make all summer! The market is full of interestin­g new melon varieties — canary yellow, Santa Claus, honey kiss—so have fun and try something new!

1 cup (250 mL) fresh peas, blanched and chilled 2 cups (500 mL) balled watermelon, seedless or seeds removed 2 cups (500 mL) balled cantaloupe, seeded

2 cups (500 mL) balled honeydew melon, seeded 3 tbsp (45 mL) freshly squeezed lemon juice (about 1 large lemon); divided

3 tbsp (45 mL) grape seed or other neutral tasting oil such as sunflower, canola or peanut 1 tbsp (15 mL) runny honey

¼ tsp (1 mL) fine sea salt

¼ tsp (1 mL) black pepper

1 cup (250 mL) fresh blueberrie­s, washed

1 cup (250 mL) bocconcini pearls, drained

3 tbsp (45 mL) finely chopped or chiffonade fresh mint leaves, stems discarded

¼ cup (60 mL) shaved or crumbled ricotta salata or other salty, hard, aged cheese such as pecorino or Romano

1 Set a medium saucepan of water over high heat. When it’s boiling, add the peas and cook for 30 seconds. Drain through a sieve in the sink, and run cold water over peas until they are cool to the touch, then set aside in the fridge to continue to drain and chill.

2 Add melon balls to a bowl and drizzle with 1 tbsp (15 mL) of the lemon juice, toss to coat, and set aside in the fridge. 3 Into a very large serving bowl add the oil, remaining lemon juice, honey, salt and pepper; whisk to combine.

4 To the serving bowl with the vinaigrett­e, add the melon balls, blueberrie­s, bocconcini, mint and peas. Very gently toss to combine and coat with the vinaigrett­e. Shave the ricotta salata on top and serve immediatel­y.

5 Garnish with more mint—tiny whole leaves are pretty—if desired.

Makes about 8 cups (2 L), serves 4 to 6 WHAT TO SERVE

VOGA Moscato Frizzante IGT

LCBO 267781 $14.50 The light effervesce­nce and honey sweetness of this Moscato is a superb match for the delicious and delicate flavour of melons.

Smirnoff Watermelon Flavoured Vodka

LCBO 382036 $27.70 Serve this mouth-watering watermelon-infused vodka with a splash of soda to echo the melon flavours of the salad.

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