WHAT BETTER WAY TO START THE EVENING

—or end it—than with an impeccable, utterly reliable Champagne? Equal parts Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, Pol Roger Brut Reserve

(LCBO 217158, $67.65) has a medium weight and a certain richness, showing yeasty, biscuity notes among apple and pear flavours. A precise balance makes it the ideal bubbly for both an aperitif and toasting the New Year at midnight.

Move to an off-dry Riesling for the first course of roasted pear salad—perhaps Vineland Estates Elevation St. Urban Vineyard VQA

(VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 38117, $19.95). As with so many salads, the dressing influences the match. This classic wine from Niagara’s oldest Riesling vineyard has the acidity to cut through the egg-yolk flavour of Cambozola while its juicy citrus and peach notes echo the sweet perfume of the pears.