Renée Bellefeuille

AGO Bistro, 317 Dundas Street West, Toronto, ago.ca

“I grew up with my mom on a farm,” says Renée Bellefeuille, “so we always cooked what was in season and fresh from the garden. I made my first pie when I was seven—an apple crumble pie. My dad’s mom was a cook. She had a diner-style restaurant for quite a long time in northern Ontario. I would visit for lunch when I was in grade school and watch her make pogos. I thought that was amazing! I love cooking for my parents. My dad’s a little bit fussy but my mom will try anything—and so will my step-parents.

“Everyone in my family loves rhubarb, and this dish is a real crowd-pleaser. You can make all the elements the day before so you don’t have to fuss over it when everyone’s around the table. It’s a bit like a trifle with the moist cake and light, tangy syllabub. Toasting some of the cake crumbs gives a little crunchy texture on top.”