Food & Drink

A SPLASH OF ROSÉ

Infused with rosé wine, a simply modern jelly dessert that is perfect for summer.

- BY SIGNE LANGFORD PHOTOGRAPH­Y BY ROB FIOCCA

Jellies were essential showstoppe­rs on the Victorian table, then they made a dubious mid-century comeback combined with all manner of tinned and questionab­le foodstuffs. We think 21st-century minimalist jellies top both trends: combining simplicity, elegance and modern flavours.

Here, we’ve created what we think is the perfect dessert to kick off the season, featuring rosé wine combined with any single variety or mix of cherries—tart or sweet—along with cream and almond essence to create a burst of summer on the tongue and a ruby feast for the eyes.

For sipping solo, any good, well-chilled rosé—from bone-dry to off-dry—is a crowd-pleaser and perfect for warmer weather. For sipping with dessert or for making dessert, choose an offdry style; the touch of residual sweetness is just right. We tasted a few bottles, from a classic dry style to an easygoing sipper, but settled on Pink House Wine Co. Rosé VQA (LCBO 324558, $13.95) as a good choice for this recipe. It’s fruit-forward and off-dry. THE PROOF IS IN THE FLAVOUR WHEN YOU COOK WITH ROSÉ WINE.

Don’t get stressed by cooking with gelatin— especially the powdered stuff—make this recipe the day before, giving the jellies time to gel and you, time to chill! Here, we’ve blended an off-dry rosé with cherries and cherry juice, for a delightful sweet-tart flavour. It calls for one 750-mL bottle of rosé, but we suggest putting a second one on ice for sipping alongside. 4 cups (1 L) cherries, pitted, fresh or frozen 1 bottle (750 mL) off-dry rosé, divided

½ cup plus 2 tbsp (125 mL plus 30 mL) superfine sugar, divided

1½ cups (375 mL) pure cherry juice

2½ tbsp (38 mL) gelatin powder (3 little paper packets, if you use Knox brand)

2 cups (500 mL) 35% whipping cream

1 tsp (5 mL) almond extract

About ¼ to ⅓ cup (60 to 80 mL) sliced raw almonds (optional garnish) 1 Start this recipe the day before by adding cherries to a bowl with about 1¼ cups (310 mL) of the rosé—more or less to cover cherries— and ½ cup (125 mL) superfine sugar. (Using superfine sugar eliminates the possibilit­y of undissolve­d sugar crystals.) Set in the fridge to macerate for 30 minutes. 2 Set small glasses for juice, wine or Martinis, jars or glass sundae dishes onto a tray—there may be some dripping and a tray will help in transferri­ng the jellies to the fridge to set. Having a jug or ladle and wide-mouth funnel on hand would be very helpful too. 3 After 30 minutes, strain the macerated cherries through a sieve set over a saucepan. Once drained, set the cherries aside in a bowl in the fridge; they will continue to release liquid that can be used for garnishing.

5 Into a large heatproof bowl, add the remaining wine, sprinkle the gelatin over it, stir and allow it to bloom or soften—about 5 minutes. 6 Once gelatin has bloomed, add the simmering cherry liquid. Stir constantly until gelatin is fully melted, about 3 minutes. 7 Transfer liquid to a jug to pour into serving vessels or use a ladle and a wide-mouth funnel to fill each glass or dish about two-thirds to the top, leaving enough room for a layer of whole cherries and a dollop of whipped cream. 8 Transfer the tray of jelly glasses, uncovered, to the fridge to cool for at least 2 hours or overnight, until set. 9 Once jellies are set, top each with a layer of reserved macerated cherries—about 2 tbsp (30 mL) per serving should do—and pop back into the fridge. Reserve 1 cherry to garnish each serving. 10 Just before serving, whip the cream with the almond extract and remaining 2 tbsp (30 mL) sugar. Spoon a generous dollop of cream onto each, then top with one cherry and a drizzle of juice from the bowl of cherries. 11 For a variation, don’t add a layer of cherries to the jellies; instead fold the whipped cream directly into the macerated cherries and top with a dollop of this pinky-red swirled cream and a single reserved cherry to garnish. 12 Garnish with a pinch of sliced almonds, if desired.

Makes 5 cups (1.25 L) liquid; 10 to 12 servings depending on size of vessel(s)

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