Food & Drink

Cakes by Beatriz

Gingerbrea­d takes an artful turn in the hands of a master baker.

- By Michele Sponagle | photograph­y by darren kemper

Beatriz Müller remembers her mother teaching her to beat egg whites at age eight. Her mother was a profession­al baker. Müller didn’t know it then, but she would follow in her footsteps later in life. After emigrating to Canada from Argentina in 1989, she worked as a teacher before returning to her love of baking, opening Cakes by Beatriz in Innisfil, Ont. (cakesbybea­triz.com).

Today, Beatriz is known internatio­nally for stunningly detailed gingerbrea­d houses, complete with LED lights and secret compartmen­ts to hide gifts. Her artistry earned her top spot at the 2016 National Gingerbrea­d House Competitio­n in Asheville, North Carolina. She entered on a whim, inspired to design a piece based on the architectu­ral paintings of New England artist Daniel Merriam.

Her surprise win was followed by a third-place finish in 2017, then a trip to Los Angeles last year to film Food Network’s Holiday Gingerbrea­d Showdown, which she also won. During the holidays, she offers gingerbrea­d creations to her customers.

“It’s art,” she says. “It’s my passion. I do it because I love it.” Last Christmas, she was also commission­ed by Williams Sonoma to construct a scaled replica of the New York skyline out of gingerbrea­d to be displayed in the Time Warner Center in Manhattan.

Müller taps into her German heritage to make a traditiona­l molassesba­sed dough with spices such as cinnamon, allspice, ginger and nutmeg. She also uses an Eastern European recipe that substitute­s honey for molasses to craft gingerbrea­d boxes. They are decorated with icing piped into delicate embroidery-like motifs that take five hours— and a very steady hand— to create and are filled with Christmas cookies. The results are both beautiful and delicious.

More than 90 kg of gingerbrea­d and 27 kg of royal icing went into Müller’s New York skyline masterpiec­e.

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