Wonder women
from page 45 JUNIPER-CURED SALMON
Eva Chin adds a few tasty tweaks to classic gravlax, including pink peppercorns, grapefruit zest and gin. She prefers Laneway No 33 Gin, though any London dry gin will work nicely. Juniper berries are becoming easier to find in grocery stores but, if yours doesn’t carry them, they can be sourced from Amazon.ca or Forbes Wild Foods (wildfoods.ca).
SALMON
1 tbsp (15 mL) juniper berries
1 1/2 tsp (7 mL) pink peppercorns
2 cups (500 mL) finely chopped dill with tender stems, about 1 bunch
1/4 cup (60 mL) Windsor kosher salt
1/4 cup (60 mL) raw cane sugar
1/4 cup (60 mL) light brown sugar, lightly packed
1 tsp (5 mL) finely grated grapefruit zest
1 to 1 1/2 lbs (455 to 680 g) skinless salmon fillet 2 tbsp (30 mL) London dry gin
SAUCE
3/4 cup (175 mL) crème fraîche
1/2 tsp (2 mL) smoked flaky sea salt
1/2 tsp (2 mL) finely grated lemon zest
Thinly sliced seed bread and lemon wedges for serving
1 For the salmon, use a mortar and pestle or a spice grinder to crush the juniper berries and peppercorns until coarsely ground. Transfer to a medium bowl, then add dill, salt, sugars and zest, mixing well to combine.
2 Pat salmon dry, then lay on a large, rimmed baking sheet, bottom side down. Pour gin over fish then gently rub in to fully coat. Flip salmon over, and sprinkle with half of dill mixture, spreading evenly so surface is fully covered. Flip salmon again, bottom side down, then sprinkle with remaining cure, packing it to ensure the fish is fully coated. Place a piece of parchment over fish to cover, then set another rimmed baking sheet directly on top. Refrigerate until firm and cured in the centre of the thickest part, 48 to 72 hours.
3 Scrape dill mixture off fish then rinse well under very cold water. Pat dry with paper towel. Wrap tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve.
4 For the sauce, add crème fraîche to a small serving bowl. Sprinkle over salt, using your fingertips to break up flakes, then add zest, stirring to combine.
5 To serve, slice salmon very thinly on a bias starting at the tail end using a long, sharp knife. Arrange on a platter alongside crème fraîche. Serve with bread and lemon wedges.
Serves 6 to 8
CHEESE FONDUE
Selma Lopes keeps her fondue classic with a rich emulsion of two Swiss cheeses and white wine flavoured with just a hint of garlic and nutmeg. The key ingredient is cornstarch, which ensures the fondue is creamy and the fat from the cheese doesn’t separate.
7 oz (200 g) grated Gruyère cheese, about 2 1/2 cups
7 oz (200 g) grated Emmenthal cheese, about 2 1/2 cups
1 cup (250 mL) dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc, divided
1 1/2 tsp (7 mL) cornstarch
1 garlic clove, peeled and sliced in half Freshly grated nutmeg to taste
Cubed bread, cherry tomatoes, sliced apples and grilled vegetables, for serving
1 In a medium bowl, combine cheeses. In a small bowl, stir 1/4 cup (60 mL) wine with cornstarch until smooth. Set aside.
2 Rub the bottom and sides of a medium saucepan with cut sides of garlic. Add remaining 3/4 cup (175 mL) wine and set over mediumlow heat. Once the wine is at a gentle simmer, add cheese, about 1/2 cup (125 mL) at a time, whisking continuously until fully melted before each addition. Adjust heat if needed to ensure fondue does not come to a boil. Once all the cheese has been incorporated, add cornstarch mixture, whisking continuously, until fondue is smooth and fully emulsified, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Season with nutmeg, then transfer to a fondue pot to keep warm. Serve immediately with bread, tomatoes, apple and vegetables.
Serves 4