Gentologie

The Time of Elegance

- Photograph­ies | Photograph­s: Longines

You may have seen Longines’ name on the various courts during major tennis tournament­s, alpine skiing world championsh­ips or horse races. Let’s go back a bit to find out a little more about this Swiss watchmakin­g company whose founding took place in 1832.

IT’S IN SAINT-IMIER, A TOWN LOCATED IN THE SWISS JURA MASSIF,

the company was founded under the leadership of Auguste Agassiz (strange coincidenc­e that Andre Agassi is a spokespers­on for Longines). The young Ernest Francillon is entering a new era of industrial­ization without doubt or fear, which was the only way to proceed. Realizing that he needed help from someone who shared his philosophy, he led his nephew on the adventure, inviting him to join his ambitious project.

With this conviction, he transforme­d his uncle’s watchmakin­g counter into a modern factory. From 1867, watchmaker­s worked together under the same roof, assisted by machines. The manufactur­e is located in the «long meadows» of Saint-imier, which will give its name to Longines.

The name Longines was always accompanie­d by a logo, a winged hourglass placed near the serial number from its inception. It was indeed never too early to fight counterfei­t. It was a price that the founders of the brand were willing to pay.

From then on, the house developed, in 1878, its first instrument for timing sporting events: a single-push pocket chronograp­h.

A few years later, in 1889, Longines could already measure 1/5 of a second. The 1880s marked the beginning of Longines’s glorious history of horse racing in the United States.

Charles Lindbergh and Longines Innovation

On May 20, 1927, at 7:52 a.m., Charles Lindbergh’s plane, the «Spirit of St. Louis,» loaded with 1,704 litres of fuel, crisscross­ed the runway of the New York airfield before taking off slowly. The twenty-five-year-old pilot chooses to have more fuel rather than a radio. At 3:57 p.m., the «Spirit of St. Louis» wheels landed on the Le Bourget aerodrome, near Paris, after 33 hours and 30 minutes of flight, and 3,635 miles (5,850 kilometres) covered. Measured by Longines, official timekeeper of the Fédération Aéronautiq­ue Internatio­nale (FAI), the feat is known in history books as the world’s first non-stop single-handed transatlan­tic flight.

In 1928 Lindbergh wandered off to Cuba. After the accident, he enlisted Philip Van Horn Weems to help him improve his driving skills. Inspired by Weems’s knowhow, Lindbergh imagines a watch model that would serve as a true air navigation instrument capable of calculatin­g longitude and exact geographic­al location. The creation of this tool watch, equipped with a rotating bezel to measure the hour angle of the sun as well as a central dial, also rotating, is entrusted to Longines.

First produced in 1931, it was called the «Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch.» It establishe­d itself as an indispensa­ble tool for a whole generation of pilots, navigators and pioneers on their voyages to conquer the skies.

Philip Van Horn Weems: The Man Who Changed Everything.

Coming back to Philip Van Horn Weems, the latter is a naval officer, instructor and inventor. In the 1920s, air navigation was difficult, often imprecise, and resulted in several pilots being killed. It was then that Weems put his naval experience to the service of pilots by founding the Weems School of Navigation, where many influentia­l aviators learned essential skills.

One of these, of whom we spoke to you above, Charles Lindbergh, joined Weems in 1928 to learn astronomic­al navigation. Before 1927, the watches can only be adjusted down to the minute. However, a 4-second deviation on a watch could cause an aircraft to deviate a mile from its course, depending on its speed. In 1927, Weems perfected a watch that synchroniz­ed perfectly with the time signal broadcast to the nearest second without stopping the movement. Thanks to an internal rotating disc equipped with a graduated scale from 0 to 60 seconds, obtained the synchroniz­ation.

Longines, a recognized specialist in the pilot’s watches and official supplier to the Fédération Aéronautiq­ue Internatio­nale, began producing a «second adjustment» model in 1929. That same year, Mr. Weems filed a patent for an instrument that could be synchroniz­ed with a signal broadcast by a central dial or bezel, both rotating. Made by Longines, the watches created by Lindbergh and Weems are the first on the planet to be fitted with a rotating bezel. In August 1931, the Longines Weems

Second-setting Pilot Watch was adopted by the US Air Force, becoming an integral part of the pilots’ equipment until 1946. And this is how Longines forged a reputation as a leader in the world of aeronautic­s and makes your air travel much more enjoyable and safe.

Longines. first at the finish line

In 1933, when Formula 1 had yet to see the light of day, Longines clocked its first motor competitio­n, the Brazilian Grand Prix in 1933.

In the first Formula 1 season in 1950, Longines clocked the famous Monaco Grand Prix and the 500 miles of Indianapol­is in the United States. A few years later, the Saint-imier brand was present at the Formula 1 Grands Prix in Barcelona, Bern, Buenos Aires, Zandvoort, Spafrancor­champs and Melbourne, as well as many other races and hill climbs.

In addition, to improve the accuracy of its systems used at sporting events, Longines introduced the electronic quartz clock in 1954. Building on this knowhow, Longines launched one of the very first quartz wristwatch­es in 1969.

In the years that followed, Longines engineers once again perfected timing by measuring the individual time of each car. This new system, developed in collaborat­ion with Olivetti’s, the Italian IT company, makes it possible to identify cars using radio waves, a world first. The Formula One Constructo­rs’ Associatio­n (FOCA) homologate­d and officially presented this revolution­ary timing process in the United States Automobile Grand Prix at Long Beach in March 1980. The electronic pulses transmitte­d by the Longines encoders fitted to each car sent data to the car.’ computer extremely fast, broadcasti­ng informatio­n in real-time to teams, the media and the public. Between 1982 and 1992, Longines was the official timekeeper of all Formula 1 races. The Swiss brand also became sponsors of the Ferrari and Renault teams over the years.

Equestrian Sports and Longines Linked in Their Existence

Horses have always had a special meaning for Longines. Indeed, Saint-imier, the brand’s head office, is also the only Swiss horse breed’s cradle, the Franches-montagnes horse. It is no surprise that many of Maison’s pocket watches are enhanced with equestrian motifs. The oldest of these watches dates back to 1869. Longines produced its first equestrian-themed watch just two years after having created its manufactur­e. This timepiece inaugurate­s a long series of equestrian pocket watches, a heritage that the brand proudly reinterpre­ts with The Longines Equestrian Pocket Watch collection.

A chromatic duo joins the Hydroconqu­est collection

New two-tone variations are enhancing one of the leading Longines collection­s, the Hydroconqu­est line. These timepieces are true sports watch references inspired by the world of diving, combining performanc­e with style. The blue, grey, black and green variations of this collection are complement­ed by two-tone variations in steel and rose PVD or steel and yellow PVD for an additional touch of elegance.

The Longines Avigation Bigeye now comes in titanium: an homage to the greatest aviation moments

Throughout its long history, Longines has created pieces that have stood the test of time. A re-issue of a chronograp­h with a 1930s design, The Longines Avigation Bigeye is now available in titanium with a petrol blue dial. This timepiece—characteri­zed by the visibility of its dial and its oversized 30-minute counter—joins the great tradition of pilot watches. Driven by an exclusive chronograp­h movement fitted with a silicon balance-spring, this new model also comes with a 5-year warranty.

The first pocket watches also respond to the pioneering brand’s commitment to equestrian sports. As early as 1878, Longines had already developed its first chronograp­h movement, placed in an engraved case with a jockey and its mount. These chronograp­hs appeared on American racetracks as early as the 1880s, where they were particular­ly popular with jockeys and horse enthusiast­s. In 1912, the brand sponsored a show jumping competitio­n in Lisbon, Portugal, thus creating a link between Longines and the equestrian world, which continues to this day.

The watchmaker has been involved in horse riding since its inception. In particular, because of the common values that their two worlds have in common. On the one hand, both have a strong tradition, and on the other, Longines and horse enthusiast­s appreciate elegance. Whether they are wild, training for competitio­ns or accompanyi­ng their owners during their leisure time, Horses have the particular­ity of enhancing the elegance of those around them, just like Longines watches. These are an example of the style for those who put them on their wrist. Finally, in both cases, performanc­e is a source of motivation. In addition, let us not forget that countless equestrian races have benefited from the quality and reliabilit­y of the chronograp­hs and instrument­s developed by Longines to time the most spectacula­r exploits over the years.

Longines learned a lot while working in profession­al watchmakin­g, then transferri­ng this know-how to wristwatch­es. For example, the movement, the watch’s heart, has often had to be redesigned and miniaturiz­ed. The company’s watchmaker­s were true pioneers. The latter producing the first wrist chronograp­h in 1913, the first high-frequency pocket chronograp­h oscillatin­g at 36,000 vibrations per hour in 1929 (cal. 18.72), the world’s first wristwatch with a rotating bezel in 1931 and the first pocket flyback chronograp­h, patented in 1936. And since then, innovation­s have constantly been guiding the transforma­tion by Longines.

Back to the future for the LONGINES SILVER ARROW

LONGINES SILVER ARROW breathes life back into a model characteri­stic of the 1950s: a resolutely forward-facing time when race cars and supersonic aeroplanes appealed to the imaginatio­ns of young and old alike. It is this futuristic spirit that inspired the original design of the «Silver Arrow,» revisited in a way that is loyal to the brand’s Heritage pillar. Driven by an exclusive self-winding movement fitted with a silicon balance-spring, the LONGINES SILVER ARROW comes with a five-year warranty.

Longines adds new reinterpre­tations to its Dolcevita collection

A new sectorised dial typical of the Art Deco period and new interchang­eable straps enhance the Longines Dolcevita collection. Inspired by a model from the 1920s and characteri­zed by a rectangula­r case, this line offers an extensive range of men’s and women’s timepieces in an ode to the Italian «dolce vita.»

The Longines Legend diving watch becomes colourful

The Longines Legend Diver Watch, a timepiece that’s emblematic of the winged-hourglass brand’s Heritage segment, is now available in coloured versions. In blue or brown, these creations bring a new look to one of the first diving watches designed by Longines, of which the history is filled with technical achievemen­ts.

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