GOSS

— The — JACQUELINE CONOIR EFFECT

PIONEERS in the FASHION INDUSTRY

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JAC by Jacqueline Conoir, a Canadian fashion forward brand that tailors to the career woman, defined as a combinatio­n of Italian sexy, French famine flare and North American cool. JAC has become a reference point for fashion trends in Canada and China. An overnight success story with over 30 years of excellence, quality and dedication behind the brand. Designer and Founder, RozeMerie Cuevas has opened 110 stores in five years and is now planning to open 20 more in Canada. Looking back she never thought she would end up in China, let alone build a fashion empire here. “I knew I wanted JAC to be global, but I never imagined this was going to happen”. That is the power of doing business in China, but more than, that is the power of JAC.

JAC by Jacqueline Conoir是专为事­业女性量身打造的前卫­时尚品牌Ꟁ来自加拿大Ɬ它的定位­是将意大利式的性感Ɡ­法式的女人味和北美酷­酷的风格融为一体Ɬ在­中国和加拿大ꟀJAC品牌都已成为时­尚趋势的风向标Ɬ经过­30多年幕后的追求卓­越Ɡ精益求精和潜心耕­耘ꟀJAC一朝走红Ɬ品牌­创始人兼设计师Roz­eMerie Cuevas在五年内­开设了110间实体店Ꟁ现在在加拿大有二十间­新店准备开业Ɬ回顾过­去Ꟁ她从没想到自己会来到­中国Ꟁ并在这里创建一个时尚­帝国Ɬ ꟃ我一直知道自己想让­JAC品牌走向全球Ꟁ但从未想象过这一切会­梦想成真ꞭꟄ这就是在­中国做生意的魔力Ꟁ但更多的Ꟁ这就是JAC的魔力Ɬ

Did you always know that you would become a fashion designer ?

From the age of 12, I have always sewn my own clothes. My mom passed away when I was five and I didn’t like where my father brought me shopping, so instead I would just cut into the fabrics and make my own. The name, Jacqueline Conoir was originally my mothers’. She’s Parisian ; the inspiratio­n for the french feminine flare in the collection.

What was your first experience in the fashion industry ?

I was 18 years old, my cousin [who had seen my pieces] told me I should do a fashion show. It was happening at the “it” night club in Vancouver. Richards on Richards. I arrived with my clothes in garbage bags, all the other designers arrived with rolling racks and their beautiful pristine garment bags. I had never done a fashion show before, so I spent most of the time in the bathroom, hugging the toilet bowl. That’s when I overheard some ladies talking about my designs. “They were saying “oh did you know the girl who designed the black and white scene was just

18 years old. She’s so talented”.

That’s when I decided I would become a fashion designer. The next day I pulled myself out of my university classes, I looked up fashion schools in Paris, I got into ESMode which was one of the top schools [in design]. I worked three jobs for a year, saved up enough money for tuition and my rent and went off to Paris. I finished a three year program in two years. I came back to Vancouver at age 23 and opened up my first boutique.

The first Jacqueline Conoir store was establishe­d in ’86. We designed power suits. We gained traction [that way]. Then we evolved into coats, sweaters, and so on. We had become an icon in the West Coast for over 15 years. Then in 2010, I was sitting in my favourite restaurant, Chamber, in Vancouver. There were two ladies beside me and they were chatting about the Jacqueline Conoir brand and they didn’t know that I was next to them and they were like : yeah, I love that brand it’s so great! I love it, it’s perfect for my mother. And I thought : what! What are you talking about, it’s not just for your mother. The truth was is that I started at 22 and 25 years later, the collection had grown with me.

您一直知道自己想成为­时尚设计师吗Ꞵ

从12岁开始Ꟁ我就为自己缝制衣服Ɬ­母亲在我五岁时过世了Ꟁ父亲带我去买衣服的地­方我又不喜欢Ɬ于是Ꟁ我干脆自己剪裁布料缝­制衣服ꞭJacque­line Conoir是我母亲­的名字Ꟁ她是巴黎人Ꟁ也是从她身上Ꟁ我看到了法式的女性魅­力Ꟁ并将它融入设计中Ɬ

您进入时尚界的第一次­经历是怎样的Ꞵ

18岁的时候Ꟁ表亲跟我说我应该尝试­参加时装秀Ɬ那次是在­加拿大温哥华当时最著­名的夜店Ꟁ名字叫ꟃRichar­ds on RichardsꟄꞭ­我用垃圾袋装着衣服就­去了Ꟁ而其他的设计师都是带­着拉杆箱和漂亮的复古­服装手袋Ɬ我以前从未­参与过时装秀Ꟁ所以那次大多数的时间­里都因为紧张跑去洗手­间抱着马桶吐Ɬ在洗手­间里Ꟁ我无意中听到几位女士­讨论我的设计Ɬ她们说Ꟁꟃ你知道吗Ꟁ那个设计了那件漂亮的­黑白衣服的女孩才18­岁Ɬ她真的是非常有天­赋ꞭꟄ

“Jac lives freely, leads by example, loves life, projects success, inspires, empowers action and knows what she wants.”

就在那一刻Ꟁ我决定要成为时尚设计­师Ɬ第二天Ꟁ我就从当时的大学退了­学Ꟁ查找了巴黎的时装学院Ꟁ并最终被法国ESMo­de国际时装学院录取Ꟁ它是䩛时装设计方面䩜­顶尖的学校之一Ɬ接下­来的一年里我打了三份­工Ꟁ存够了学费和租房的费­用Ꟁ就起身去了巴黎Ɬ我用­两年的时间完成了三年­的课程Ɬ23岁的时候Ꟁ我回到温哥华Ꟁ开了自己的第一间时装­店Ɬ

第一间Jacquel­ine Conoir时装店开­设于1986年Ɬ当时­我们设计了女力西装套­装Ɬ䩛通过这种方式䩜­我们赢得了喜爱Ɬ随后­我们又设计了大衣Ɡ毛­衣等等Ɬ在超过15年­的时间里Ꟁ我们都是西海岸的时尚­偶像Ɬ2010年的某­一天Ꟁ我正坐在自己最喜欢的­餐厅里Ꟁ是位于温哥华的Cha­mber餐厅Ɬ我旁边­的两位女士在聊天中谈­到Jacquelin­e Conoir品牌Ɬ她­们不知道我就坐在旁边­Ɬ她们说Ꟁ嗯Ꟁ我很喜欢那个品牌Ꟁ很棒ꞿ非常适合我的母­亲Ɬ我当时想Ꟁ你在说什么呢ꞿ我们的­衣服可不只是适合妈妈­辈的Ɬ但事实是Ꟁ我22岁开创这个品牌Ꟁ但是过了25年Ꟁ这个品牌也开始随着我­在变老了Ɬ

In 2011 I decided to re brand to JAC by Jacqueline Conoir. I gave her back her personalit­y and that became Italian sexy, North American cool and french feminine flare. I sought out a partner, the partner that happened to come across my office was Bruce Lee. Within four years we opened 110 stores. From North to South, East to West. We have stores in Tibet, in Mongolia, and in Shenyang. We just won designer of the year in Hangzhou. Our sales are in the top 20% of AAA department stores and now the plan is to go back to Canada full throttle with 20 new stores.

Did you have a pivotal moment in your career that you experience­d in order to grow to where your brand is today ?

I think in the lifespan of a career, you go through many ups and downs. All those challenges become building blocks to the power behind you. If you don’t give up, it doesn’t happen overnight, [but] you realize that you’re stronger than you actually thought you were. When the decision came for me to go to China, I was ready. I was strong enough to take on the most enormous challenge of my life. It wasn’t just the language barrier, but also the cultural difference­s, and a totally different business culture.

What ways have you noticed difference­s in business culture ?

[In Canada] we are much slower; we analyze a lot, we want to be sure before we get in, we are very cautious and very careful. It takes us a long time to do a lot of things we want to do. When you’re in China, you’re full on, all the time. I’ve had meetings in the back of my car, driving to the airport on the way to another city to do the opening of a boutique.If you adapt and latch on to this speed, you will gain success. Rather than being super cautious, they just try things, they don’t think about it too long. We also have a numbers game here, there’s a lot of people. So whatever you try, there’s a big audience for it. I do notice more and more, focus is being placed on being more creative [here]. I think the future will see a lot more original designs coming out of China.

What keeps you motived to keep going and growing after having accomplish­ed so much already. Do you ever take a second sometimes to think “wow I built this” ?

My entire career I’ve always woken up every day and I’ve done what I loved to do. I’ve been very lucky that my husband has been supporting what I love to do my whole life. So I’m very grateful to him. I think when you do what you love, the rewards just kind of happen. They flow towards you. 2011年Ꟁ我决定重新定位 JAC by Jacqueline Conoir 品牌Ɬ我重新给予了它­个性Ꟁ那就是将意大利式的性­感Ɡ北美酷酷的风格和­法式女性魅力相结合Ɬ­我知道自己想将这个品­牌做大Ꟁ也知道我一个人是无法­完成的Ɬ我要寻找一名­合伙人Ꟁ而当时出现在我办公室­的成为我合伙人的Ꟁ就是Bruce Lee.我们在四年的时间里开­了110家店Ɬ在中国­我们的店从北到南Ꟁ从东到西遍布全国Ɬ我­们在西藏Ɡ内蒙和沈阳­都开了店Ɬ每家店都取­得了很好的效果Ꟁ我们的品牌也得了数不­清的奖项Ꟁ最近在杭州也赢得了ꟃ­年度设计师Ꞔ奖项Ɬ我­们的销售在AAA级商­场里居前20%Ɬ现在Ꟁ我们计划回加拿大开2­0家新店Ꟁ马力全开Ɬ

在您的职业生涯中Ꟁ是否曾经历过某个转折­的时刻Ꟁ让您的品牌得以成长为­今天的样子Ꞵ

我觉得Ꟁ在一个人的职业生涯中­会有很多起起落落Ꟁ而我们所经历的挑战则­会成为在背后支撑我们­的基石Ɬ只要你不放弃Ꟁ虽然这不是一朝一夕就­会发生的Ꟁ䩛但慢慢䩜你会发现自­己比想象得更强大Ɬ当­做出要来中国的决定时Ꟁ我就准备好了迎接这一­变化Ɬ这是我生命中遇­到过最大的挑战Ꟁ而我坚强地面对了它Ɬ­在这里我要面对的不仅­是语言障碍Ꟁ还有文化差异Ꟁ以及完全不同的商业文­化Ɬ

JAC精神Ꟃ自由生活Ꟁ敢为表率Ꟁ热爱生活Ꟁ孕育成功Ꟁ创造灵感Ꟁ给人力量Ꟁ以及Ꟁ清楚知晓内心所想

您在哪些方面注意到了­中国和加拿大商业文化­的不同Ꞵ

䩛在加拿大䩜我们的节­奏要慢很多Ꟁ会做很多分析Ꟁ在投入某件事情之前想­要保证万无一失Ɬ我们­十分谨慎Ꟁ十分仔细Ɬ很多想做的­东西Ꟁ都需要花费较长的时间­才开始Ɬ而在中国Ꟁ你要火力全开Ꟁ时刻打起精神Ɬ我在要­乘飞机去其他城市准备­新店开业的时候Ꟁ在去机场的路上坐在汽­车后座开了很多的会议­Ɬ当你很好地适应Ꟁ跟上节奏Ꟁ才能取得成功Ɬ人们不­会过于谨慎Ꟁ他们愿意去尝试Ꟁ不会花太多时间在思虑­上Ɬ这里还有一个数字­上的优势Ꟁ那就是有很多人口Ꟁ所以不管做何种尝试都­会有大批观众Ɬ我越来­越多的注意到Ꟁ䩛在中国䩜人们的焦点­越来越多地放在有创意­的事物上Ɬ我认为Ꟁ以后我们会看到中国出­现更多的原创设计Ɬ

在达成了现在的成就后Ꟁ是什么让您保持继续工­作的动力并且能够持续­发展呢Ꞵ您是否曾停下­步伐感受一下Ꟁꟃ哇Ꟁ我建立了这一切ꟄꞴ

在整个职业生涯中Ꟁ我每天都是一醒来就投­身于自己所热爱的工作­Ɬ非常幸运的是Ꟁ我的丈夫一直都十分支­持我所热爱的事业Ꟁ为此我感到十分感激Ɬ­当你做自己热爱的事Ꟁ自然就会得到回报Ꟁ成绩就会纷至沓来Ɬ

Jane and Bruce Lee, were introduced to us so we created a relationsh­ip. Initially they were just going to manufactur­e for us. After creating a relationsh­ip, we became partners.

Why did you choose JAC ?

Bruce : Seven years ago, we were thinking about the future. We wanted to be more internatio­nal. We wanted to have partner from outside of China. [We were thinking about] finding a good designer, or a brand and we found a designer and a brand together. It’s not difficult to manufactur­e clothing, but it’s not easy to create a brand with a soul. We wanted the culture, the soul of the brand. A brand with a story, and an internatio­nal background, not just a registered name overseas.

Jane : [At the time] when we started JAC, all the Chinese brands were very colourful, very feminine. This was totally different, very cool and edgy but very different. I couldn’t understand and accept that kind of style at that time. When RozeMerie brought JAC collection to Hangzhou, and our customers had the chance to look at what an internatio­nal designer brand is, they felt “wow so strange yet special”.

RozeMerie : We kept the DNA of the brand. What we’ve done is keep the black, white, beige but added a pop colour in every season, and of course we offer the Chinese red.

Jane : (laughs) Chinese people love red. Before I used to never wear black, when we first partnered up I started to wear black.

您为什么选择和JAC­品牌合作Ꞵ

Bruce:七年前Ꟁ我们在考虑以后的发展Ꟁ想要更加国际化Ɬ我们­想寻求国外的合作伙伴Ꟁ䩛想要䩜找到一个好的­设计师Ꟁ或者某个品牌Ꟁ结果我们两者都找到了­Ɬ要加工服装并不困难Ꟁ但要打造有灵魂的品牌­却并非一件易事Ɬ我们­看中的是其文化Ꟁ和品牌的灵魂Ɬ它是一­个有故事的品牌Ꟁ有国际化背景Ꟁ而不是只是在国外注册­一个名字Ɬ

Jane:当我们开始做JAC品­牌䩛的时候䩜Ꟁ国内的女装品牌还是非­常艳丽Ɡ非常女性化的Ꟁ而它完全不同Ꟁ非常酷非常前卫Ꟁ又非常特别Ɬ当时我还­不能理解和接受那种风­格Ɬ当RozeMer­ie把JAC服装带到­杭州Ꟁ我们的顾客有机会看到­了国际设计师品牌是什­么样子Ꟁ她们觉得ꟃ很奇怪但又­很特别Ꞔ Ɬ

RozeMerie: 我们保留了品牌DNA­Ɬ我们保留了黑Ɡ白Ɡ­米色的基调Ꟁ但在每季服装里增添了­一个流行色Ꟁ当然我们也加入了中国­红Ɬ

Jane:䩛笑䩜Ɬ中国人确实喜­欢红色Ɬ以前我从来不­会穿黑色Ꟁ当我们开始合作之后Ꟁ我也开始穿黑色的衣服­Ɬ

Have you seen a shift in Chinese fashion towards more internatio­nal styles over the year ?

Jane: Yes, all the time. JAC is definitely a pioneer in fashion for its time. We’re so lucky to have chosen JAC at the right time, with the right person. It was a perfect match.

How do you deal with this fast pace model ?

Jane : Technology has changed the lifestyle of Chinese people. The last 10 years. The survival principle in China, not only in business but in everything. If you stop, you will fail. Our next step is global, in the China market, JAC sells #1 in local department stores. JAC created a lot of magic.

RozeMerie : Now we are ready for the Canadian market with 20 stores in the plan.

For more informatio­n visit jacbyjc.com jacbyjc.cn

过去的几年里您是否看­到中国的时尚潮流在向­国际化转型Ꞵ

Jane:当然Ꟁ一直在变化ꞭJAC在­当时绝对是时尚先锋Ɬ­我们很幸运Ꟁ在合适的时候选择了J­ACꟀ选择了合适的合作伙伴­Ɬ我们的配合很完美Ɬ­我们的下一步目标是全­球化Ɬ在中国市场上ꟀJAC在本地商场的销­售额占第一位ꞭJAC­创造了很多奇迹Ɬ

RozeMerie :现在我们准备开拓加拿­大市场Ꟁ已经有20家店在计划­中了Ɬ

了解更多信息Ꟁ请点击浏览官方网站

jacbyjc.com

 ??  ?? Photograph­y by Xu June (left) Designer RozeMerie Cuevas (right)
Photograph­y by Xu June (left) Designer RozeMerie Cuevas (right)
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