Grand Magazine

Reinterpre­ting a Classic

Waxing poetically about winter wine, sort of

- BY MICHAEL PINKUS

THEY (UNIVERSAL KNOW-IT-ALLS) say wine is “liquid poetry,” which made me think about Robert Herrick’s classic poem, To the Virgins, to make much of Time.

Now as Robin Williams said about this very poem in the movie Dead Poets Society, “language was developed for one endeavour … to woo women.” But really to me, poetry, and in particular this poem, seems to fit with wine as well. I only wish I had realized that during my post-secondary days.

It’s a well-known fact that many writers and poets drink (I’m sipping on a glass of something right now). So let’s now take that Herrick poem and link it to the coming of winter and wine.

If you take some of the lines from Herrick’s poem you can see that by replacing a few words here and there and reinterpre­ting them, the poet was indeed thinking about a glass or bottle of wine. Trust me. “Gather ye (bottles) while ye may, Old Time is still a-flying: And this same (wine) that smiles to-day, To-morrow will be dying.”

An obvious reference to bringing wine home and consuming it while it’s young: We all realize that wine has a limited lifespan, but the average bottle today should last at least two to three years in a cellar, not 24 hours on the kitchen counter. “That age is best which is the first, When youth and blood are warmer; But being spent, the worse, and worst Times still succeed the former.”

Sure a bottle is fresh, fruity and delicious when it’s first opened, if it is meant to be opened young and fresh, that is. But I can also point to many vintages that need time to age and, with time, get even better. We drink our wines way too young; reds especially need a little time in the bottle. “Then be not coy, but use your time, And while ye may, go marry: For having lost but once your prime, You may for ever tarry.”

If you open a bottle in its prime — and that does not mean in the hour post purchase — you might chastise yourself for not procuring more. Wine is a finite product. You can always buy more Labatt Blue once you’ve drank up your supply. But if you love the way your 2005 Mouton goes down, whatever you have is all you’ll ever get; they aren’t making any more.

So let’s now tie this all together. Winter is coming and you should be thinking about selecting wines for your winter stash — those you’d like to be drinking on cold February nights and beyond. You might even hold on to a few for next winter. And as I skipped one of Herrick’s verses, allow me to add one of my own: Gather ye bottles, my dear friends, And to-morrow you’ll be a-smilin’ For those same wines you buy today For years you’ll be enjoyin.’

Winter Reds for 2015 and Beyond

Once your long wintry day is done, it’s nice to sit back with a glass of something red and cockle-warming. Why red? We

Canadians tend to be seasonal drinkers — white in summer and reds in winter. For these selections, I’ve also indicated how long to hold on to them before uncorking.

Hillebrand 2012 Red Shale Cabernet

Franc ($42.00, winery only) The 2010 edition of this wine won best red in Ontario, but this one just might be a shade better. It’s in limited supply so stock up. (Seven to eight years)

Thirty Bench 2012 Small Lot Benchmark

Red ($60.00, winery only) Stunning bit of winemaking from right here in Ontario. It’ll need about two years before you should even consider drinking it. (10+ years)

Michael David Winery 2012 7 Deadly

Zins ($24.95, #59311) If you’re looking for something special in a Zinfandel, this one’s got it: mocha-baconcherr­y and smoky notes that get better with age. (Five to seven years)

Louis Martini 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon,

Napa Valley ($29.95, #232371) The fruit is the star here with lots of cherry, followed by spice, pepper and cedar. It’s a delightful Napa Cab to be enjoyed for years to come. (Six to eight years) Catena 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon ($19.95, #985002)

There’s such an elegance to this Argentinea­n offering. It’s generous of fruit and spice and has a long finish. (Five to eight years) Concha y Toro 2012 Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon ($21.90, #337238)

Having tried many back vintages of this wine, I would not hesitate to lie this one down for a decade or more. (Eight to 10 years)

Torres 2011 Gran Coronas Cabernet

Sauvignon Reserva ($18.95, #36483) Spain offers great value in age-able reds. Here, it’s peppered-mocha, black currants and wood smoke and that’s just for starters. (Five to seven years)

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Michael Pinkus

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