Grand Magazine

ISRAEL: HANUKKAH

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In the second century BCE, when the Seleucids (Syrian-Greeks) ruled Jerusalem, Jewish customs were made illegal and Jews were forced to accept Greek culture and beliefs.

After the Maccabean Revolt, the rededicati­on of the Holy Temple in Jerusalem required the menorah to burn day and night. They only had one day’s worth of purified oil, but that small amount lasted eight days — long enough to get more oil.

Today, Jews commemorat­e the miracle of the oil during Hanukkah, an eight-day festival that begins on the 25th day of the Hebrew month of Kislev, usually falling in December.

For each of eight nights, the hanukkiah (a nine-branched menorah) is lit — the ninth branch holds “the helper” candle, which is used to light the others. After sundown, another candle is added and lit as two blessings are recited or chanted: one is a blessing over the candles, and the other gives thanks for the deliveranc­e. A third blessing, usually said during joyous occasions, is recited on the first night.

To remind others of the miracle, many display the menorah in their window. After the candle-lighting ceremony, families teach children about the celebratio­n, play games, sing songs and give gifts. Observance­s usually take place at home, but some communitie­s hold public lighting ceremonies.

Eating fried food on Hanukkah is an ancient tradition that refers to the miracle Europe often serve latkes (potato fritters), the Mediterran­ean region’s Sephardic Jews have sufganiyot (stuffed or filled deep-fried yeasted dough fritters, recipe follows).

Savoury versions can be stuffed with meat, chickpeas, mushrooms and lentils, but it’s the sweet ones — doughnuts filled with jam, custard, chocolate cream and even dulce de leche — that are Israeli favourites.

The first jelly doughnut recipe appeared in the 16th century. Over time, the recipe evolved into pastries such as berliners and paczki.¸ In Poland, ponchiks were Hanukkah treats. They were taken to Israel, and later renamed “sufganiyot” (“sufganiyah” is the singular), referring to the “spongy dough” referred to in the Talmud.

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