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High above Lake Louise and Lake O’Hara in the Canadian Rockies’ stands a hut; its stone walls have witnessed success and suffering. Mountaineers hold the hut in high regard; it is a haven in the alpine.
The Abbot Hut is the second-highest per manent structure in Canada, the first being the Neil Colgan Hut. Perched at Abbot Pass, 2925 m, it is named for North America’s first mountaineering fatality. In 1896, Phillip Stanley Abbot fell to his death while attempting the first ascent of Mount Lefroy.
In 1897, Peter Sarbach, the first Swiss guide in Canada, led a group up Mount Lefroy and Mount Victoria and demonstrated the need for trained guides in Canada. The Canadian Pacific Railway saw the potential for developing tourism in Canada and hired Swiss guides to work at their hotels. By the beginning of the 1920s, ascents of Victoria and Lefroy were popular outings. The cpr Cabin, as the Abbot Hut was originally known, was built to provide easier access to the peaks, and to provide shelter in emergency situations.
Built largely by Swiss Guides such as Feuz and Aemmer, construction of the high altitude hut was a major undertaking. Materials were hauled by horse across the Victoria Glacier and then carried on the guide’s backs the remainder of the way. Cement, lime, windows, timbers, tools, beds, bedding and a stove were carried in this manner from Lake Louise via the route known as the Deathtrap; named after an incident involving Swiss guide, Edward Feuz Jr.While passing over the Victoria Glacier, Feuz and some others were swept down the glacier by an avalanche. Porters carrying loads for the hut found him with only his hand sticking out of the snow and dug him out. It is said that after he regained his composure his first concern was that he had lost his pipe in the “darned avalanche.”
While two-tons of building material were brought in, the hut utilized locally quarried, hand cut stone. Based on local building methods and Swiss design, the hut was built in harmony with its natural surroundings. The motivation to design buildings that fit into their environment is an example of the Rustic Design Tradition, popular in the early 1900s.
By the 1960s the hut had been well used by both the cpr guides and the general public alike, and as it essentially had no upkeep or maintenance for 40 years, had become dilapidated and grimy. The cpr turned the hut over to Parks Canada, which along with a dedicated group of volunteers, cleaned, gutted and re-roofed the place. In 1985, Parks turned the operation of the hut over to the acc. The Club has since renovated the hut three times, once in 1986, and again in 1993, and June of 1997 saw the interior of the hut brought back to close to its original state.The Abbot Hut was designated a National Historic Site on August 26, 1997.
There are three approaches to Abbot Pass in the summer, two of which require technical skills and exper ience. The easiest and most logical way is to approach from the Lake O’Hara side, hiking the scenic trail to Lake Oesa then following the interesting and strenuous route up the wide scree gully which drops directly from the pass. Hikers may opt to take the scheduled bus to Lake O’Hara.
There are two mountaineering routes from the pass: the Southeast Ridge of the south summit of Victoria, and the West Face of Lefroy.The former is one of the most elegant ridge routes in the Rockies, while the latter gives excellent snow or ice climbing of a moderate standard. Both routes take you to the top of impressive 11,000+ foot peaks, give excellent views and are highly recommended. It is also possible to traverse the Mount Victoria massif from the pass. This is a less popular, and certainly more committing outing than either of the other two routes. Information on these routes can be found in the guidebook Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies by Sean Dougherty.
In winter, objective hazards such as avalanches prevent access to the hut. It has room for 24 people and a propane system for cooking and lighting, a wood stove provides heat.
Make arrangements with the acc, hire a certified mountain guide if you must and experience a piece of Canadian mountain history.
There are two mountaineering routes from the pass: the Southeast Ridge of the south summit of Victoria, and the West Face of Lefroy