Is Psicobloc the Future of Competition Climbing?
Weeks leading to the Outdoor Retail (OR) show, July 31 to August 4, buzzed with anticipation of the first psicobloc competition in North America, where competitors would climb above water. Excited athletes and spectators made their way to Park City, Utah, where the debut competition was held. As day turned to evening, the first competitors looked up the overhanging 55- foot wall and when the horn sounded, history was made.
Big-names at the show were Chris Sharma, Tommy Caldwell, Dave Graham, Emily Harington and Sasha DiGiulian.
In the finals for the women it was Delaney Miller pitted against DiGiulian for the women’s finals round. A bad fall the day before had tired Miller and she fell below halfway and the Canadian-born Digiulian climbed to the win.
The route was changed for the men’s final by none other than Spanish sender Dani Andrada, it clocked in at 5.14. Sharma fell during the second round, shocking the audience. It was Daniel Woods against Tennessee boulderer Jimmy Webb during the final round. Woods fell off lower than Webb, handing him the victory at the milestone event.
The evening caused a wave of stoke through the climbing world and the ripples will be long-lasting. There will be big-plunges, uglybruises and more cheers as Psicocomp evolves and Gripped will be there, as should you.– BP