Dry-tool Crags

I think that there are grey zones that need to be carefully considered. For example people have dr y tooled at Grassi Lakes, Alta. on the classic sport routes. This is not acceptable on many fronts. Then there are some areas that share both mixed climbing and sport climbing such as Grotto and everyone seems to respect that the routes are for different sports, which is good. I think we need more dr y-tool crags. I just think the developers need to be mindful that it would be a poor choice to develop a crag for dr y tooling that would otherwise be an excellent sport or trad crag. The reason for this is simple, there are much more people who climb sport and trad, the season for sport and trad is longer than the dr y-tooling season and beautiful expanses of good rock are far better to climb sport routes in the summer sun. So, as with ever ything there is a balance. I do not see it is a big issue in ter ms of what should be designated as a sport, trad or a mixed crag, because in the end, the developers are all trad, sport and mixed climbers who I’m sure would make the r ight choice based on logic and esthetics. Basic guidelines for a dr y tooling crag: Pick an area where the rock is not the best or has steep rock with little in the way of natural handholds. Stay well away from main sport or trad areas that have already been developed. If expanding a dr y-tool area that already shares sport or trad routes, make sure that the new dr y tooling routes you are developing are away from the main rock climbs, do not develop dr y tooling routes in the National Parks where it could cause public scr utiny, such as along a popular trail or sensitive area. For example, Johnston Canyon, Alta. has fantastic potential but has sensitive lichen and lots of public viewing.