Another 5.15c for On­dra

Gripped - - NEWS - 8a.nu:

made the first as­cent of Vasil Vasil, 5.15c, a line he bolted five years ago at Sloup in the Czech Repub­lic. On­dra wrote on “Very frus­trat­ing process of mak­ing no pro­gres­sion for long days, but when it fi­nally hap­pened, on a su­per cold sticky day, it felt like noth­ing.” The crux is a V13 move which is part of a larger sev­en­metre V14 prob­lem fol­lowed by a 5.13d sec­tion. On­dra spent no less than 20 days over two years work­ing on the route. On­dra has climbed over 50 5.15s, hav­ing done the first as­cent of Change and La Dura Dura, both 5.15c. Bri­tish climber Nick Bul­lock and Scot­tish climber Greg Boswell spent Novem­ber, in the Cana­dian Rock­ies. The dy­namic mixed-climb­ing duo ticked a hand­ful of the area’s most clas­sic mixed climbs. First up was The Maul M7 on The Wedge in Kananaskis Coun­try, which has had less than as­cents. Next they set their sights on Man Yoga M8 250 m, on the Stan­ley Head­wall, which also has fewer than 10 as­cents. As the tem­per­a­tures dropped and snow con­di­tions sta­bi­lized, they climbed Rocket Man VI M7+ 350 m, on Mount Pat­ter­son, which has only had four as­cents, in­clud­ing theirs. For their last im­pres­sive mixed climb they re­tur ned to the Stan­ley Head­wall and did the third and fourth red­points of Vic­tor ia’s Se­cret De­vi­a­tion M7++, a gear-pro­tected sin­gle-pitch crack that was first climbed by Raphael Slaw­in­ski.

Jean-Pierre “Pee Wee” Ouellet in Hy­pothénuse, 5.13c in Val-David, Que.

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