Gripped

Rare Alpine-esque Ascent in Quebec

Sens Unique

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M6+R, A1, 200 m is a remote 5.10 summer route that follows an esthetic rock pillar in the Hautes-Gorges-de-laRivière-Malbaie Park. Climbed in 1974 by Quebec legend Claude Bérubé and Stephan Fr ick, Sens Unique is rarely climbed because of its location and low rock quality on the third-pitch. Yannick Girard and Louis Rousseau climbed it on Feb. 7, in “normal” northeaste­rn winter conditions: high winds and spindr ift. The temperatur­e was between - 19 and - 28 C which caused temporary hypothermi­a and frostbite. After a 25- kilometre ski and a four-hour approach through thick brush, they climbed until dark and bivouacked on route. The following day they completed their 48-hour round tr ip. Climbing Sens Unique for its first winter ascent was, in Rousseau and Girard’s words, “An opportunit­y to fulfill our alpine dreams on the gentle rolling hills of easter n Canada.”

Jonny Simms

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