MERE INTUITION

The phenomenon of intuition is myster ious, especially as it relates to the mechanical nature and general predictability of the climbing exper ience: systems work, the physics are understood and the forces are generally controlled. The rationality of the climbing exper ience seems antithetical to the ir rational basis of intuition. There is no empirical justification or basis for a strong insight when everything is seemingly going well on a crag, wall or mountain.

In climbing, when things go wrong, like a loaded mast snapping on open water, they do so very quickly.

Intuition must be acknowledged and heeded, if it is to help. Unlike a rack of quick-draws or cams, intuition cannot be purchased or found. Its use cannot be gifted, taught, lear ned or certified. There is no training manual for it and it can be difficult to share with climbing partners who safeguard their storehouse of impenetrable objectivity. As veteran alpinist Mark Twight says, “Your partner may think you’re lame for wanting to turn back. Let him think it. You know what is appropr iate for you. Honour it.” In other words, honour intuition.

Intuition has two faces. At times, it is subtle and feels like a passing spectre troubling the pleasure of the day, trying to seize your attention about something you have failed