Why Sonnie Trotter is so important to Canadian climbing

There are dozens of climbers

whose contributions to Canadian climbing can’t be overlooked, but time and time again, Sonnie Trotter proves why he is on top. I learned of Trotter on my first day of climbing, in Ontario’s Newmarket climbing gym, Of Rock and Chalk. I flipped open magazine’s premiere issue and Trotter was one of first climbers mentioned. “The most notable ascents were by Sonnie Trotter, 19,” it read on page five, “for his first ascent of Spaceboy, Ontario’s first 5.14.” I still have a copy of the issue. It was Trotter’s introduction to Canada.

Now, in October 2014, 34- year-old Trotter will appear, like he has dozens of times over the years, in again.This time for his first free ascent of a project from 1975, a route he discovered after reaching out to climbing legend Urs Kallen. Trotter, along with Ontarioborn Sam Eastman, sent the route at 5.12+, but as Trotter says, “They don’t all have to be the hardest, it’s really about the adventure in finding new things.” It is the latest in a long list of first ascents for Trotter, including the world’s hardest crack: Cobra Crack.

I’ve been lucky to tag along with Trotter on a few of his projects. I look forward to it every time, I always learn something. In 2014, he invited me to join him and Jasmin Caton for a day of projecting at Lake Louise. On the approach, Trotter said, “I saw Caldwell onsight a 5.13d in Switzerland this year. It was the most impressive thing I’ve seen in climbing. That guy is so underrated, he is the next level.” On the wall, Trotter said, “Coaching the kids is amazing, they inspire me. I love working with them, they’re the future.”

We were on an old project started by climbing-master Peter Arbic. Trotter clipped the old piton-anchor-high-point and made difficult moves to gain the upper wall. His fluidity and focus on the rock is amazing. Bad weather sent us packing, but Trotter vowed to return. On the walk out he said, “Lake Louise is one of my favour ite spots. It’s so beautiful. I wonder if anyone will make the trek to this side of the lake once we’re finished.” At home that evening, I had an email from a reader, it read, “What routes has Sonnie established? I want to climb them all, have you met him?”

As the next generation of climbers emerge, Trotter’s influence in Canadian climbing will be ever more apparent. His philosophy is simple, “Do what you love. Love what you do. Take less. Give more. Never quit. Never follow. Be passionate. Be bold. Be honest. Respect people. Respect the environment. Always br ing out the best in your family and fr iends. Change is the only constant. Fear is an illusion. Attitude is everything.” Thanks for the great routes and memorable stor ies Trotter, we looked forward to many more.