Hard New Routes in Rock­ies

Gripped - - NEWS -

Crosby John­ston, Joshua Lav­i­gne, Paul McSor­ley and Tony Richard­son spent the bet­ter part of July and Au­gust in the Walker Arm of the Sam Ford Fjord on Baf­fin Is­land in Nu­navut.They made the first as­cent of Bel­uga Spire’s north pil­lar. The 1,100- me­tre route was chris­tened Har­poon VI A1. Two of the 29 pitches re­quired short sec­tions of aid and were freed by a sec­ond. Crosby and Joshua es­tab­lished a new route up the north pil­lar of the Tur­ret en­dur­ing near freez­ing temps and wet rock. Their line, the John­ston-Lav­i­gne, was 700 me­tres and went at VI 5.12 A1.

a new 5.14c at Acephale, Alta. he called First Flight. “The route does not let up, with big moves be­tween bad holds and bad feet. I blew it a few times at the up­per crux which is higher than most chains at Acephale. It has a huge throw off the birds nest hold to a slop­ing edge, then you have to find a way out of the su­per-stretche­d­out po­si­tion,” said Muller. “I went for a hand-heel match which I could barely stick.” On the same day, Evan Hau climbed a new 5.14c on Cougar Creek’s Planet X he called The Pres­tige. “A pow­er­ful V13 crux leads to a per­fect jug right be­fore an amaz­ing fi­nal roof. Such a great feel­ing and process. I love this stuff,” said Hau.

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