Hard New Routes in Rockies

Crosby Johnston, Joshua Lavigne, Paul McSorley and Tony Richardson spent the better part of July and August in the Walker Arm of the Sam Ford Fjord on Baffin Island in Nunavut.They made the first ascent of Beluga Spire’s north pillar. The 1,100- metre route was christened Harpoon VI A1. Two of the 29 pitches required short sections of aid and were freed by a second. Crosby and Joshua established a new route up the north pillar of the Turret enduring near freezing temps and wet rock. Their line, the Johnston-Lavigne, was 700 metres and went at VI 5.12 A1.

a new 5.14c at Acephale, Alta. he called First Flight. “The route does not let up, with big moves between bad holds and bad feet. I blew it a few times at the upper crux which is higher than most chains at Acephale. It has a huge throw off the birds nest hold to a sloping edge, then you have to find a way out of the super-stretchedout position,” said Muller. “I went for a hand-heel match which I could barely stick.” On the same day, Evan Hau climbed a new 5.14c on Cougar Creek’s Planet X he called The Prestige. “A powerful V13 crux leads to a perfect jug right before an amazing final roof. Such a great feeling and process. I love this stuff,” said Hau.