1975

Trot­ter dusts off a project from the golden era

Gripped - - THE ROUTE -

When Urs Kallen walked be­neath Goat Moun­tain and spot­ted a frac­ture in the wall he knew it had to be climbed. He was on a re­con­nais­sance to look at the yet-to-be­climbed Goat But­tress and saw the fu­tur­is­tic crack on his re­turn to the car. Back in Cal­gary he phoned his climb­ing part­ner Billy David­son. The two of them had ac­com­plished many f irst as­cents in­clud­ing cmc Wall and Yel­low Edge on Yam­nuska. Kallen grew up in Switzer­land and after climb­ing many of the Alp’s clas­sics, he moved to Canada with his wife Gerta. David­son was a Cal­gary lo­cal who met Kallen at a Cal­gary Moun­tain Club meet­ing, their part­ner­ship com­bined years of Euro­pean alpine climb­ing and tech­ni­cal aid skills.

Kal len spot ted t he crack on Goat Moun­tain i n the spring of 1975. At the same time Kallen found it, David­son was in Yosemite, mak­ing the fourth as­cent of The North Amer­ica Wall. When he re­turned from the south, he planned to travel with Kallen to Yosemite the fol low­ing year to tr y The Shield. To train for their tr ip, they wanted to climb another new route to­gether and when Kallen phoned him about the po­ten­tial new route on Goat Moun­tain, David­son wanted to go. They recr uited a new climber, Rob Mitchell, a keen but young climber.

They ap­proached the route the day be­fore Thanks­giv­ing. David­son and Mitchell were ver y im­pressed with the line and David­son jumped on the lead while Kallen searched for wood for a shel­ter. After es­tab­lish­ing the f irst pitch with aid and free climb­ing and us­ing bolts and pi­tons for pro­tec­tion, the three climbers read­ied to sleep un­der the shel­ter Kallen built. Us­ing longs branches and logs and a piece of plas­tic, he con­str ucted a spa­cious lean-to. In the morn­ing the climbers were go­ing to ju­mar

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