Orbayu is totally different, the first four pitches are quiet overhanging and it’s a really cool position. Then the key pitch is just brutal. It’s 40 metres on really small crimps and poor footholds.
Will you return to the route or are you content with sending each pitch?
Honestly, I slowly begin to realize what happened dur ing the time we spent there. It was ful l of emotions, highs and lows, we went through the craziest things I’ve exper ienced and I know that I gave my real ly best there. I was extremely tired and kind of deeply exhausted, so it’s hard to say how I feel about the idea to go back. I fel l in love with the place and I stil l have a mission. If I wil l be stronger next year and if I can f ind a motivated climbing par tner then, yes, but only next year. Now it’s time for the Petzl Roc Trip. Many media sources placed you at the centre of controversy earlier this summer when they said Sasha DiGiulian announced she felt you took “control” of the route. How have you answered the criticism?
Ten days before we left, I got a message from her that she wanted to tr y it. We realized that we both had the same plan to go