New Mixed Route in Storm Creek
Canadian Mike Doyle is one of Canada’s strongest spor t climbers. Sending for nearly t wo decades, Doyle’s long-ter m projects were Necessar y Evil and Just Do It The two routes were two of the earliest in America at the grade, the for mer is repor ted to be slightly harder than the latter. Doyle sent the route on his 59th attempt. After the climb, Doyle wrote, “Barr ing a hold break it was done. I just climbed each move slowly and deliberately. Stopping to rest, shake and enjoy the moment. By the time I reached the anchors, I was already rela xed again.”
his new-routing spree with a route in Storm Creek with Jonny Simms. Their new route is cal led Kahveolog y and is a 160 - metre M8 WI5, the val ley paral lel Stan ley Headwall. They named their route after a South American cof fee company that label led a brand of cof fee Man Yoga, after Walsh and Simms’s 2013 route. Walsh said, “Unsurprisingly, the back of the cave was chossy and I had to place t wo bolts just to get into the steep climbing. Then t wo more bolts got placed as I blew my gear and tools out on body weight placements. With four bolts placed through the steepest and hardest pul ls, I got to a nice crack which marked the beginning of what’s probably the best stretch of limestone I’ve ever dr ytooled on. After a few steep pul ls out the cave, the angle eases to ver tical to slightly overhanging for about 30 metres, with numerous bulges to negotiate. Per fect torquing in cracks and on in-cut holds made for real ly fun sustained climbing, with enough stances to shake out from, although never a hands free position until the belay.”
Marc-Andre Leclerc started
Ian Welsted made a point