5 Strat­egy

Gripped - - BACK TO BASICS -

One stead­fast r ule-of-thumb is to star t early, hence the ter m “alpine star t.” This might mean hik­ing in the day be­fore to biv y near the base of the route. If a l l goes well, you’l l be sip­ping cock­tails by late af­ter­noon. How­ever, if you’re caught in an af­ter­noon thun­der­stor m in lousy weather, you may be forced to beat a hast y retreat, or r isk get­ting be­nighted. Nei­ther is a pleas­ant op­tion.

When climb­ing in the ’pine it’s rare to en­counter bolts, although the oc­ca­sional r ust y pi­ton can make an ap­pear­ance. Bring ex­tra web­bing to back up an­chors and a small knife to re­move old wornout web­bing. Be aware that most moun­tain routes have debr is and loose rock and you’ l l likely be r un­ning it out. Tread care­ful ly and al­ways wear a hel­met.

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