Climbers Breathe New Life into Wales’s Classic Crags
The crags of Tremadog
are some of the most climbed and classic in a l l of the U.K. For both loca l and travel ling climbers, there’s a high concentration of qualit y lines from easy to dif f icult. Over the years, many of the crags at Tremadog fel l into disrepair until the British Mountaineering Council ( bmc) stepped in to clean things up. Five years into the ef for ts of the bmc and the popular it y of Tremadog is at an al l-time high.
The ease of access makes the area attractive, but it’s the rock qualit y that draws the masses. The fast-dr ying doler ite of fers high-fr iction and solid climbing up interesting cor ners, shar p arêtes, spl itter cracks, positive edges with good to great protection. Not to mention the hospitable Eric’s Café that is strateg ica l ly positioned for climbers to enjoy. Most of the rock is traditional ly protected, but there are newer sport routes at Moel y Gest Quarr y, which stay cool on hot summer days.