Ap­proach Shoes by Gus Alexandropoulos

Gripped - - CONTENTS -

Con­sist­ing of a short sewn sling, a straight gate biner and a cap­tive, easy-clip­ping bent/wire gate rope-end biner, quick­draws are manda­tory gear for al­most ev­ery route. Not only do quick­draws al­low for faster clip­ping on des­per­ate routes, but they also cre­ate a short ex­ten­sion that min­i­mizes rope drag and helps pre­vent nuts and cams from shift­ing. It’s this easy-clip­ping ver­sa­til­ity that has made quick­draws pop­u­lar on ev­ery­thing from re­mote alpine routes to easy-ac­cess sport climbs.

Grivel Al­pha Quick Easy

$19

Grivel’s Al­pha Quick Easy quick­draw com­bines the highly func­tional Al­pha straight biner and sim­i­larly shaped Beta bent gate biner with the in­cred­i­bly in­no­va­tive Quick Easy draw assem­bly. The bin­ers dis­play Grivel’s typ­i­cal high-qual­ity con­struc­tion and fea­ture snag-re­sis­tant key­lock gates and a mid-size body that seems just about per­fect for any climb­ing sit­u­a­tion. Grivel has also added a small groove on the straight gate for eas­ier han­dling when clip­ping. While these are all much-ap­pre­ci­ated fea­tures, it’s the unique Quick Easy draw that re­ally dis­tin­guishes these quick­draws from the many other op­tions on the mar­ket. The Quick Easy con­sists of a nar­row Dyneema sling that is cov­ered by a semi-rigid plas­tic han­dle-shaped sleeve. The sleeve even has fin­ger grooves, which al­lude to the draw’s spe­cial prop­er­ties. Not only does the sleeve pro­tect the sling from abra­sion, but it also helps sta­bi­lize the rope biner for eas­ier clip­ping. But per­haps its big­gest ad­van­tage over con­ven­tional quick­draws, is that it of­fers an ex­cel­lent grip for pulling up when work­ing sport routes. This last fea­ture is es­pe­cially ap­pre­ci­ated on steeper routes where af­ter fall­ing, climbers need to pull on draws to get back on the rock. As such, these are some of the best sport-climb­ing spe­cific draws avail­able.

DMM Al­pha Sport

$32

dmm’s Al­pha Sport quick­draw is specif­i­cally de­signed to ad­dress the clip­ping and dura­bil­ity needs of sport climbers. Both the ropeend and bolt/gear-end biner fea­ture a beefy body with a sna­gre­sis­tant key­lock gate and a ribbed spine for se­cure han­dling. The bolt biner’s gate has a unique scal­loped shape that en­sures a solid grip, while the rope-end biner has an al­most J-shaped gate that seems to en­cour­age ef­fort­less rope clip­ping. To pre­vent any ac­ci­den­tal clip­ping of the rope biner into a bolt hanger (or wired nut), dmm uses a dif­fer­ent coloured top and bot­tom biner. The two car­bin­ers are con­nected with a ro­bust vari­able-width sling that of­fers a great hand­hold when try­ing to pull back onto steep routes. dmm also in­cludes a small rub­ber sleeve that pre­vents the rope biner from shift­ing while also pro­tect­ing the draw from abra­sion. This is a great sport climb­ing-spe­cific draw that of­fers ex­cep­tion­ally easy clip­ping as well as ex­cel­lent dura­bil­ity at a rea­son­able weight.

Mam­mut Bionic Evo Ex­press

$28

Fea­tur­ing ex­ten­sive hot-forg­ing, the Mam­mut Bionic Evo Ex­press quick­draw com­bines high strength ( 10 kN open gate,) low weight and easy han­dling. The bin­ers fea­ture a bow-back shape that of­fers a se­cure grip and a snag-re­sis­tant key­lock nose. The gear-end biner has a scal­loped gate for eas­ier han­dling when clip­ping while the rope-end biner has a sim­i­larly easy-han­dling wire gate. Con­nect­ing these bin­ers is a 10 mm Dyneema sling that pro­vides plenty of strength and dura­bil­ity with­out adding ex­cess weight. The re­sult is a quick­draw that is equally at home on dif­fi­cult sport routes as well as hard trad climbs and alpine ad­ven­tures.

Petzl Djinn Axess

$18

Look­ing at the Djinn Axess quick­draw, it’s dif­fi­cult to be­lieve that this is Petzl’s more cost-ef­fec­tive al­ter­na­tive to its top-of-the-line Spirit Ex­press quick­draw. The Djinn has the feel and look of a pre­mium draw, but at a more ac­ces­si­ble price. The Djinn bin­ers fea­ture a large easy han­dling body that thanks to an H-cross sec­tion, is sur­pris­ingly light. Petzl has sculpted the body so that there is a large rope-bear­ing sur­face and has also added a snag-re­sis­tant key­lock gate. To fur­ther im­prove han­dling when clip­ping bolts or gear, the straight gate biner fea­tures a grip-im­prov­ing notch. The two Djinn bin­ers are con­nected with a beefy polyester sling and Petzl in­cludes its now of­ten du­pli­cated rub­ber string that not only pre­vents the rope-end biner from shift­ing, but also pro­tects the sling from abra­sion. Dur­ing test­ing, the Petzl Djinn Axess quick­draw ex­celled in al­most ev­ery climb­ing sit­u­a­tion and is a great high-qual­ity op­tion for climbers seek­ing a durable and ver­sa­tile quick­draw.

Me­tolius FS Mini II

$19

The al­ready pop­u­lar FS Mini quick­draw has been up­dated this year mak­ing it an even more com­pelling op­tion for many climbers. With the FS Mini II, Me­tolius has in­creased the gate open­ing by about one milime­tre, smoothed out the nose an­gle and re­duced the weight of these al­ready feath­ery-light bin­ers by one gram. Me­tolius joins these bin­ers with their burly 11 mm wide slings and also adds a JIG rub­ber sta­bi­lizer that pre­vents the rope-end biner from shift­ing when clip­ping. In a five-inch draw-length, the Me­tolius FS Mini II quick­draw comes in at just un­der 55 g, which makes this a great choice for longer trad routes while still re­tain­ing the func­tion­al­ity nec­es­sary for sport climb­ing.

Edel­rid Slash $15

With their in­cred­i­bly ver­sa­tile shape and size the Edel­rid Slash Set quick­draws of­fer ex­cel­lent per­for­mance and dura­bil­ity. Edel­rid starts with a biner body shape that is suit­able for sport climb­ing, trad and even win­ter ad­ven­tures. Edel­rid then adds a snag-re­sis­tant key­lock nose, which fur­ther in­creases the biner’s ver­sa­til­ity. Throw in a beefy 16 mm wide sling (per­fect for the abuse en­coun­tered on sport routes), a rub­ber sling pro­tec­tor that sta­bi­lizes the rope end biner and a rea­son­able re­tail price, and it’s clear that the Edel­rid Slash Set quick­draws are re­ally just about per­fect for any new or ex­pe­ri­enced climber.

Omega Pa­cific Vul­can $21

Omega Pa­cific’s (OP) Vul­can draw has a num­ber of fea­tures that will ap­peal to any climber look­ing for a ver­sa­tile and light­weight quick­draw. The draw con­sists of OP’s hot-forged Vul­can bin­ers that weigh just 32 grams, yet of­fer a shock­ingly strong 26 kN closed-gate strength ( 9 kN open-gate), which is higher than most (if not all) small wire gate bin­ers. The biner also fea­tures an easy-to-hold bow-back shape as well as a wide rope-bear­ing sur­face. For the Vul­cans, OP has cho­sen to use its unique Inf in­ity wire gate that is pinched in the mid­dle. This shape min­i­mizes the chance of the gate open­ing if the biner is dragged against the rock and also helps pre­vent tan­gling with other gear on the rack. A Dyneema sling en­sures the rope-end biner stays put when clip­ping with­out adding un­nec­es­sary weight or bulk. All these fea­tures re­sult in a great quick­draw that can easily tran­si­tion be­tween sport routes and more back­coun­try-ori­ented trad climbs.

DMM Al­pha Sport

Grivel Al­pha Quick Easy

Petzl Djinn Axess

Omega Pa­cific Vul­can

Edel­rid Slash

Mam­mut Bionic Evo Ex­press

Me­tolius FS Mini

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