Quickdraws, Anchors and Cleaning
Inspect fixed quickdraws and back them up if they look suspect. Old fixed biners can be so worn down that the sharp edges can cut a rope. If you’re using someone else’s draws, give them a quick inspection to be sure they are good to go. Modern sport climbs are often rigged with ring bolts for fast and easy rappelling. Older routes can have a mix of anchor hardware, from fixed chains to pitons with webbing. Learn the basics of equalization and how to apply the system to different anchor arrangements. It is often easiest to clean the quickdraws while seconding. There are a few tricks to cleaning traverses and caves top down. Before you hose yourself, do some research and learn how best to rescue your draws.
Above: Leslie Timms on Summer Residence 5.12b at Lion’s Head