Gripped

I think the big prize would be a stellar line in Canada. Not just some dirty little boulder problem on a rope but a striking line with multiple crux sequences – that would be a big deal.

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piece of rock, but how do I tell whether or not I should invest time into working the route? Someone who climbs 5.15+ would probably have an easier time envisionin­g new 5.15a routes. I think there will eventually be multiple 5.15 routes in the Bow Valley, however the difficult approaches and short seasons make establishi­ng new routes much harder than year-round climbing at roadside crags in places like Spain.”

Hau went on to say that there are big projects in the Bow Valley, but that there are hard projects at Christie Falls in Kelowna, B.C. He also says that the most likely to climb the grade in Canada are Trotter, Harnden, Muller and himself. Having tried a number of 5.15s in Spain, he knows he has the focus to climb one, but never the time and hopes one will soon be establishe­d in the Bow Valley. When McColl was asked if he wanted to climb 5.15, he said, “Kind of, but I love competing right now which unfortunat­ely doesn’t leave me a lot of time to climb outside. Then when I do go outside, I don’t like to focus all my efforts on one route.” And later commenting on whether being the first Canadian to send 5.15 would matter, he said, “Do I think it’s a big deal to me personally? No, not really or I would’ve at least worked one seriously. If I have the motivation and a chance to get to a spot with a good looking 5.15 line. If I ever get around to doing one and I happen to be the first, it would still be pretty cool.”

Daniel Martian is one of Ontario’s strongest climbers with a number of new 5.14s at Lion’s Head. When asked about 5.15, he said, “I’ll say in the next two years at least one Canadian climber will climb a 5.15 in Spain and maybe in max three years one route in Canada for the grade. Referring to the sport climbing world, it is a big deal to climb the grade so even more impressive for the first person that will do it.” One of the first Canadians to climb 5.14 was Mike Doyle in the 1990s. He has spent the past few years sending hard 5.14s in the U.S. When asked about where the first 5.15 might be climbed in Canada, he said, “I would think that it will be in the Bow Valley. There are already a few hard routes there and the stronger climbers are really motivated to develop routes. Limestone is also the premier rock for hard climbs. The small features and consistent nature of the rock makes it more likely. I’m not sure the West Coast granite or gneiss would have the features for the hardest climbs and I have never climbed in Ontario or farther east but maybe.” And when asked if the grade mattered for Canada, he said, “Not for me and not if you go to Spain and just tick one that people are running laps on. Certain routes are still iconic like Biographie (Realizatio­n) so I think the big prize would be a stellar line in Canada. Not just some dirty little boulder problem on a rope but a striking line with multiple crux sequences – that would be a big deal.”

Another one of Canada’s top climbers is Jamie Finlayson in Squamish. He has spent countless days working on Dreamcatch­er. When asked whether a 5.15 will be climbed in Canada and if he wants to climb one, he said, “It will happen it is just a matter of time. I hope to project one eventually, hopefully soon.” Muller, who establishe­d Kinder Surprise, said that Canada has a small and spread out population where hockey takes priority over any other sport. “Many Euro countries have funding for their climbing

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