To Pump You Up
10 ROUTES
Californication M5 A fun warm-up or introduction to mixed climbing. You start up the ice ramp and head out next to the pillar.
Shagadelic M6+ One of the top five of the crag. It starts up the peg board wall into a left-facing crack. The crux is pulling the ledge, always easier later in the season with lots of ice.
Half and Half M7 The must-climb classic. It varies every year: sometimes it’s fat and sometimes it’s thin. Often used as a warmup. Climb the steep wall to an icy roof.
Hand in Glove M7+ The newest classic up the prow on the south wall. Up low-angled rock to seams and edges for 20 metres. Solution pockets, hand jams frozen turf and a stein-pull. Longest route in Haffner.
Maximum Impact M7+ A rarely-climbed route, but one that deserves more attention. About two minutes up the creek, it starts with a burly few moves to a slab to a crux finish.
Boyd Mystery M8 A burly route with technical moves, but positive features. It’s a test-piece M8, be sure to get your clipping positions right.
Swank M8 It starts with a few steep moves before powering up a classic corner. The crux is finding your feet.
Homoerectus M8+ The Hoar Cave warm-up. It includes big moves up the overhanging wall. Pumpy and full value.
Cave Man M10 The Hoar Cave classic M10. It has a powerful start with ground fall potential. Some holds have broken, which has upped the grade from M9. Figure-four your way across to the lip.
Neolithic M11+ The Hoar Cave test-piece that feels like steep bouldering. The upper section is full-on core intensive with thin ice smears. This is the ultimate Haffner workout.–