OVERCOMING CHALLENGES ON AND OFF THE ROCK
True toughness exists i n the soul and spirit of a person, not necessarily their muscles. Although i n Jany Mitges’s case, toughness exists in both. Yet tough or resilient are words that still cannot capture the humble strength of Mitges, a woman who has fought through serious hard times to bounce back as an athlete with an inspiring outlook on life.
Mitges has been a fixture of the Ontario climbing scene for 27 years and was once known as one of the top female route climbers in Canada. Not to mention a serious competitive cyclist and a key figure in the fights to secure access to both Halfway Log Dump and Niagara Glen. Though her biggest life accomplishment was surviving two types of breast cancer and a difficult childhood marred by drugs and violence. Mitges has also been battling a debilitating neuromuscular disorder for nine years, almost died from a super virus in March and has witnessed several climbing deaths over the years. Despite being dumped with a truck load of bad luck, she stays strong, on target and ever positive.
Mitges grew up in Hamilton and during her childhood years she was exposed to a lot of abuse, drugs and violence within her family. “I ran a lot to deal with the negative experiences and lack of support and love in my family life,” said Mitges. “My goal was if I survived my childhood, I would make a good life for myself and for those I loved.” She was fortunate to meet her incredibly supportive husband, Steve Mitges, when she was 16. He has been the main support in her life through it all. “He is my rock, my anchor and a true example to all men out there of how to be a loving and supportive partner.” Mitges and Steve started climbing together at Rattlesnake Point, 27 years ago, when Mitges was 22. She says that she fell in love with the sport immediately, loving “the sense of freedom in a world full of chaos.” She was also inspired by cycling and mountain biking for similar reasons to climbing, loving the problem solving, the focus required and the community. “Climbing has remained my first passion, but when I needed a break from climbing, my focus would go back to mountain biking and racing mountain bikes.”
Her husband shares both of her passions and has supported her throughout her career as a professional climber and competitive cyclist. Mitges evolved into one of the top female route climbers in Canada, regularly ticking off 5.13s and onsighting hard 5.12s in a sport once dominated by men. She was seen on magazine covers and had several top industry sponsorships. When asked what her most memorable climb was she said, “I still live off the memory of having sent four 5.13s and onsighting and f lashing a slew of 5.12s in one week and then sending a bunch more 5.13a and 5.13b routes over the next couple of weeks.” In her off time f rom climbing, she was winning or making podiums at Ontario