SQUAMISH ACCESS SOCIETY
What do climbers need to know heading into 2017 in Squamish? Overall: that the situation in Squamish is changing, and that assumptions based on previous visits may no longer hold true. Especially in relation to accommodation and parking – see more detailed comments to other questions below.
What are the biggest issues for the Squamish Access Society? Our work is a combination of physical projects like trail building and anchor replacement, and liaison with land managers, being primarily BC Parks, the BC Ministry of Forests, Lands and Natural Resource Operations (FLNRO) and the District of Squamish (DoS). The physical projects tend to follow a well-established course, and we are proud of recent successes like the Loop Trail at Murrin. However in the liaison area, personalities and circumstances change and we sometimes have to revisit established agreements or respond to new initiatives. For example, we are close to completing a new management plan for the Smoke Bluffs that was driven by new senior staff arriving at DoS two years ago. Right now the local BC Parks office is going through a staff transition. From BC Timber Sales there is a steady stream of logging proposals that may impact climbing areas. Meanwhile, visitor numbers to the area keep rising and the town itself is going through major economic and demographic changes. Advocating for climbers whilst paying appropriate attention to residents’ concerns is a delicate balance.
How has climbing in Squamish changed over the past 10 years? The positive change has been extensive development of new cliffs, routes and boulder problems plus plenty of retro-scrubbing (both of which we celebrate at our annual Golden Scrub Brush awards event). However there are more climbing visitors who in turn have to compete for resources like camping and parking with the increased number of general tourist visitors. The new gondola has been especially impactful in that regard, as it has insufficient parking space for its own usage, causing cascading problems at the Chief and elsewhere (however we appreciate that the gondola enables alpine access to Sky Pilot and other peaks). Star Chek 5.9 This route was established by Ron Goldstone between 1994 and 1995, but the first ascent was grabbed by Kevin McLane and Sig Isaac in 1995. Over the past 21 years, it has become one of the most sought-after fully-equipped 5.9 multi-pitch routes. To get to the base, you rappel down into the Gorge to the base of Galaxy Buttress. The f irst two pitches are 5.6 and 5.7 and the crux 5.9 is the third pitch. There is a fun 5.10c f inal pitch variation. Wrist Twister A3 or C4 Wrist Twister is a popular aid climb with some difficult placements over three pitches. Think of it as a mini big wall. You can work on aid techniques, jugging and hauling. It climbs the impressive Tantalus Wall on the right side of The Chief. You need hooks, nuts, copper heads and some small to medium cams. The first pitch is A3 and you follow rivets and bolts to cams and hooks. The second is more of the same with a few more difficult placements and the final pitch has some steep hooking. Worm World Cave V9 While not everyone visits Squamish for the bouldering, and the V9s require lots of granite bouldering experience, Worm World Cave is a must-try for those pushing the V grades. You start down in a cave and find the two holds at your head. Then you focus on the low-percentage left-hand deadpoint to a crimp. As you work up the arête to the right, you have to get in position for the big move back with your left hand, which leads to the topout.