The Coliseum

The crown jewel of the area and host to the best rock is The Coliseum, known primarily for its concentration of hard bolted lines ranging from 5.11c to 5.13b with a new currently closed project that is supposed to be even more difficult. Those looking for a moderate warm-up can sample the 5.10c trad route that runs up the middle of the crag or a rarely climbed 5.9 at the far left, but most will simply bolt-to-bolt one of the harder sport lines rather than lug a full trad rack on the 45- minute approach. The crag is only 20 metres wide, but packs a punch with three 5.12s and a 5.13 each boasting its own unique crux movements. In all cases, the style is best described as power endurance with poor rest positions and consistently hard pulls from the bottom to the top of the 15- metre-high wall. Though the wall is only gently overhanging, expect to find your core fully engaged as you fight barn doors, make reachy lunges to small edges and compress slippery slopers that might make you feel like you’re on a Squamish boulder. This is def initely the spot in the Victoria area to get your try-hard on. For those looking for a more mental challenge, an extremely spicy 5.11 mixed line is known for spitting off many strong climbers and would make a proud addition to any tick list.

Unlike the lesser-known bluffs of the region, The Coliseum is well-tended with minimal moss invasion and shiny new bolts on many of the lines. Nevertheless, exercise caution as the friable basalt rock can, and does, break. Consider wearing a helmet when belaying, particularly early in the season.