In­di­ana Chap­man

Canada’s Fu­ture Climber, Now

Gripped - - 10 QUESTIONS - Gripped

In­di­ana Chap­man is one of Canada’s ris­ing climb­ing stars, with a num­ber of im­pres­sive wins and podium fin­ishes. This sum­mer, she was the only Cana­dian to head to a fi­nals round at the Youth World Cham­pi­onships. We caught up with Chap­man at the start of the 2017/2018 Cana­dian com­pe­ti­tion sea­son, when she had just won the first On­tario com­pe­ti­tion of the sea­son at Coy­ote Rock.

1. How long have you been climb­ing and where did you start? I was a mon­key-bar kid since I was lit­tle, so I was al­ways climb­ing some­thing. I’ve been in­door rock climb­ing since I was seven and started at True North Climb­ing in Toronto. My dad has al­ways climbed and was re­ally the one who in­tro­duced me to the sport.

2. What was the first com­pe­ti­tion that you won? It’s ac­tu­ally hard to re­mem­ber the first, but I’m sure it was just a lo­cal comp. The first year I started, I was so happy just to get a par­tic­i­pa­tion rib­bon. I do know that the first big comp was when they still had the Youth D cat­e­gory at Youth Dif­fi­culty Na­tion­als and I won that the day af­ter I turned 10.

3. You started the year win­ning Youth B at the Na­tional Boul­der­ing Cham­pi­onships. Did you have a good feel­ing about the year af­ter that win? Ac­tu­ally, last year started off re­ally rough, be­cause I was fac­ing some health is­sues. Just three weeks be­fore the Na­tional Boul­der­ing Cham­pi­onships, I came down with pneu­mo­nia. Be­cause of that, I fo­cused on be­ing pos­i­tive, no mat­ter the cir­cum­stances. In the end, it was a good year!

4. This sum­mer you were one of only a few Cana­di­ans to make Semis at the World Youth Cham­pi­onships, what was that like? Hon­estly, I went to Worlds with no ex­pec­ta­tions at all, de­ter­mined to do my very best and try my hard­est. Mak­ing it to Semis was amaz­ing. Mak­ing it to Fi­nals and plac­ing fourth was al­most too much to wrap my mind around. What made it even sweeter was shar­ing the ex­pe­ri­ence with my Team Canada team­mates who were there cheer­ing me on and so sup­port­ive.

5. Did any round or prob­lem rise above the oth­ers as your favourite? I re­ally loved the first slab prob­lem in Fi­nals. Know­ing that Fi­nals would be ex­tremely hard, I felt so en­cour­aged that I was able to top that one to start things off.

6. What was the ex­pe­ri­ence like over­all? From watch­ing so many other climbers to the trav­el­ling? To rub shoul­ders with so many amaz­ing climbers from all over the world, it was re­ally in­spir­ing to say the least. I learned so much from watch­ing other climbers, and get­ting to try some pretty chal­leng­ing prob­lems and routes. It also made me feel en­cour­aged that all the hard train­ing is so worth it.

7. Who are some of your climb­ing heroes? There are so many strong climbers out there, but my heroes tend to be the ath­letes who have the best at­ti­tude. They are hard-work­ing, hum­ble, and they don’t take their suc­cess too se­ri­ously – like Anna Stohr, Alex Hon­nald, Sasha DiGi­u­lian and Chris Sharma.

8. What are your hopes and plans head­ing into the 2017/2018 com­pe­ti­tions? I am al­ways look­ing to push my lim­its as a climber, but how I place in a comp isn’t re­ally the most i mpor­tant thing to me. As long as I feel I give it ev­ery­thing I have, climb smart and keep a pos­i­tive at­ti­tude, I’ll be happy. Of course, I would love to make the Youth Team Canada again and at­tend an­other Youth World Cham­pi­onships, since it’s a priv­i­lege to be part of. And I hope to com­pete in the U.S. this year for an ex­tra chal­lenge.

9. What’s your dream in the world of climb­ing? I would love to be a pro­fes­sional climber and get to do this full time. And like ev­ery­one else in our com­pet­i­tive climb­ing scene, maybe one day get a chance to rep­re­sent Canada at the Olympics.

10. Do you have any out­door projects and what’s your favourite place to climb? I wish! Be­cause of my train­ing sched­ule, I’m a self-ad­mit­ted gym rat. I have a dream of mov­ing closer to moun­tains to make it eas­ier. I def initely look for­ward to the time when I will make out­door pro­ject­ing my pri­or­ity. At the mo­ment, my favourite place is Klet­terzen­trum gym in Inns­bruck, Aus­tria. It’s the most in­cred­i­ble climb­ing fa­cil­ity I have ever seen.—

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