The First Ascent of a Huge Moderate Rockies Sport Route

is a mighty spire. To me, this has always been the single most impressive feature of the Bow Valley. It’s this kind of feature that inspired me to tie into a rope in the first place. To put myself in that place and to experience it would be no simple task. As I researched the various routes on the wall, I found no good route for me. The most repeated line was Goat Buttress, first climbed by Chris Perry and Trevor Jones in 1977, but it’s a serious undertaking. At 5.10d with big run-outs, tricky gear and bad rock, I couldn’t risk it. There was the collection of Peter Gatzsch’s routes, most rated 5.9 or 5.9+, but upon further investigation I discovered that most of these routes still await a repeat He has a bit of a reputation for not “wasting” bolts on easy climbing and also denies any route is harder than 5.9. He once suggested to me that a good introduction to the wall would be the easiest route, with the most protection, Wild Colonial