Quebec Big Ice and Mixed News

Stas Beskin reported about a new steep M9 WI5+ climb called The Only Whale on Mars in Perce above the open water of the St. Lawrence River. Beskin said after, “From the last anchors it follows the ice shelf to the right, passes the old anchors of Moby Dick and climbs up rock roof and ice roof into broken free-hanging icicle. The crux transition into the ice protected on less than perfect tricams.” Jean-François Girard, Carl Darveau and D’zaô Plamondon visited and made the first free ascent of a big granite roof that connects t wo thin ice sections called Speedy Trap at SainteMarguerite Headwall near Sept-Îles. They graded the free route M7 WI6+. The route was first climbed a few years ago by Damien Côté and Benoît Marion with points of aid at M9 A0 WI6+.