Routes Climbed in Memory of Marc-André Leclerc
The news of Marc-André Leclerc and Ryan Johnson’s deaths in Alaska shocked the climbing community. Within a few days of getting the news, climbers who had shared a rope with Leclerc headed out in search of new lines to climb in his memory. Jon Walsh and Niall Hamill climbed a new 150- metre M7+ WI6 on Storm Creek Headwall and called it Scar Tissue. Walsh said after, “We named the route after what seemed to be Marc-André’s favourite book, which is Anthony Kiedis’ autobiography. He’d love to recite passages of that book to me as we drove to go climbing, and it’s one of my many fond memories of Marc. It was on this wall that we put up The Plum together in 2014, Marc’s f irst climb in the Rockies. His f irst lead was a blockbuster that I’ll never forget. Since his passing a couple weeks ago, it’s been hard to muster up the energy, psyche or desire to go winter climbing, or do anything risky or do anything at all, but getting back to the mountains has def initely helped the healing process. His spirit is def initely present at the Storm Headwall. Besides being a great friend and climbing partner, Marc was one of the most creative and inspiring people I’ve ever known, and his loss has certainly left some scar tissue.” On Vancouver Island, Steve Janes and James Rode established a 130- metre M5+R WI4 on March 17 and called it Wish You Were Here. The route climbs up a nice ice/mixed line on Kings Peak. “The name of the route, Wish You Were Here, is a bit of a personal reference to Marc-André Leclerc and the inspiration he left us all with,” said Janes. He, Leclerc and Brette Harrington had recently made the second ascent of The Theft, a long ice/mixed route near Bridge River at the start of February.
New Bulletshead Pitch Kyle Smith established a new 5.11b/c trad pitch that links into Bulletheads East up thin cracks and a funky corner called Marooned.
Above: Kings Peak, Vancouver Island, B.C. Bottom right: Louis Sarrazin climbing Marooned 5.11b/c on Bulletheads East