The Mul­tiDay Pro­ject

Five Tips to Send This Sea­son

Gripped - - TRAINING AND TECHNIQUE -

Projects of­ten don’t go down in one day and they there­fore de­mand two, three or maybe 20 vis­its be­fore you red­point it. Some clim­bers have their ul­ti­mate pro­ject, which might take years to climb, but hav­ing at­tain­able goals in projects that you can send in a few ses­sions im­proves your skills as a pro­ject climber.

You don’t want to spend your crag time hang-dog­ging on routes that are clearly too dif­fi­cult for your cur­rent abil­ity. All you’re go­ing to do is kill your con­fi­dence and psych. It’s the send­ing it­self that el­e­vates you as a climber, so pick a pro­ject that you can climb in a few days or, at least, in one sea­son.

This is where out­door climb­ing dif­fers from in­door climb­ing in terms of work­ing on a pro­ject, be­cause in­door climbs have an ex­pected life­time but are pre­dictable whereas out­door projects are there for­ever but con­di­tions vary.

Is It a Two-Day Pro­ject?

If you didn’t climb your route on the first day, do you think you can on the sec­ond day? Re­mem­ber that you’ll be more tired on day two, but your psych and mus­cle mem­ory will be bet­ter than on day one. More of­ten than not, clim­bers are more re­laxed on day two be­cause they don’t ex­pect to send it. Some clim­bers get their hard­est red­points on the day-two at­tempts. If it’s not a day-two send, then you’ll have to re-think your plan. Take some rest and re­turn an­other day.

Home Wall

One of the best ways to train for a pro­ject is to sim­u­late the moves. If you have a home wall, then you can set a prob­lem that has sim­i­lar move­ment and holds. Work the se­quences sev­eral times dur­ing a work­out to de­velop the mo­tor skills and strength you’ll need. When not on the wall, visu­al­ize the moves in each of the cruxes to cre­ate a de­tailed pic­ture that you can repli­cate with ease.

At­tempt the Send

Don’t go for the red­point right away, hang­dog your way up from bolt to bolt. This will men­tally pre­pare you for a one-go at­tempt. At the crux, mime through the se­quence a num­ber of times, clean the holds and pre-clip the draws. Check out the post-crux move to the an­chors to be sure you re­mem­ber the flow. Once you feel warmed up, lower and wait about 30 min­utes be­fore go­ing for the red­point.

The Red­point

Be­fore you go for the send, fo­cus on calm­ing your­self down and on suc­cess. Be­ing ner­vous is a good thing as your brain is re­leas­ing adren­a­line to pre­pare you. Give it ev­ery­thing you have, but be pre­pared to ac­cept fail­ure and to try again. You’ll have a bet­ter chance of send­ing once you’ve ac­cepted fail­ure is pos­si­ble. Once you’re ready, clear your mind and ex­e­cute ev­ery move, one at a time.

Ex­pec­ta­tions

Fail­ing for days, weeks or months on a route can crush your self­con­fi­dence and pos­si­bly take away your mo­ti­va­tion for climb­ing. Be­fore you get to this point, take a rest and leave your pro­ject to fo­cus on a dif­fer­ent climb for a while. Go climb some routes, clip some chains and re­build your con­fi­dence. If you change your ex­pec­ta­tions for a few weeks, you’ll be able to for­get about the pro­ject and send some eas­ier climbs. If you’re pro­ject­ing 5.12a, then go climb some 5.11as. Just go with the flow and once you get your mojo back, you’ll know when to dial up the ex­pec­ta­tions and re­turn to your pro­ject.—Gripped

Above: Kai Light­ner train­ing for his next pro­ject

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