New Bugaboos Routes

Jonny Simms and Crosby Johnson climbed a new seven-pitch 5.11 in the Bugaboos called Nightrain. “The weather was holding. We planned to do a few pitches, come down and start early the next day, given my state of insomnia. As an alpinist knows, ‘When the weather holds, we climb!’ So we climbed.” All pitches were done as rope stretchers and onsight, except for pitch-two, which required some cleaning. On another trip, Simms and a guiding client, Marley Hodgson, climbed The Beckey/Chouinard followed by a new route called Friday the 13th, a f ive-pitch 5.10- on Feather with No Name.